It rained pretty hard overnight but the old Spring Mountain shelter did not leak. Like many of the shelters on the Tennesee/North Carolina border it was built in 1937/1938 by the Civilian Conservation Corps. These were typically small, with rock or log walls and a Tin Roof. The trail clubs try hard but sometimes have difficulty maintaining them.
We got on the trail at 8:30 am and made the six and a half miles to Log Cabin Drive by 11. We debated a little about going off the trail for 3/4 of a mile to Hemlock Hallow Inn and Cafe for a late breakfast but resisted the temptation and decided to ascend the 3 1/2 miles to Little Laurel Shelter for lunch. Major Tom and Hellcat went ahead while I was lagging in the light rain. On the way up I ran out of energy with my legs cramping up. I have lost 20 lbs since I started on the trail and by now am having a hard time finding additional fat to burn for energy. I need to eat more spread out during the day but am trying to temper that with the need to carry more food and more weight.
I finally arrived at Little Laurel Shelter as Major Tom and Hellcat were finishing their lunch. I decided to have a large lunch including some ramen, jerky, a tuna pack, tortillas and coffee. The guys left before I finished. I felt better on the trail after the large lunch but about half way up a 1500 foot climb to Bald Mountain it started to thunderstorm again. I push on over bald mountain until about 4 pm until I arrived at the bad weather trail bypass for Big Firescald Knob. The official Appalachian trail went over an exposed rocky ridge but the trail crews built a blue marked trail that allowed hikers to bypass the difficult part. There was still a light rain but no thunder and lightning so in a moment of recklessness I decided to take the official exposed ridge trail. It was a pretty hard 1/2 mile climb up the rocks where I often had to use my hands and feed to get past some of the rocks. Finally I got to the top of the ridge and was rewarded with spectacular views. Despite the rain there was a view of the Tennessee Valley to the west and endless mountains of North Carolina to the east. After taking in the views I was ready to get off of the exposed ridge but the trail did not cooperate. I descended down some steep rocks only to ascend to the top of the ridge again. This repeated several times and I was getting tired. Finally the trail did descend and I found a rock overhang that offered a small dry space that I crawled into for a rest. I checked my guidebook and saw that I needed to hike 2 1/2 more miles to get to Jerry Cabin Shelter. I ate a Snickers Bar and restarted my hike. I shortly arrived at the other side of the bypass trail, it had taken me one and a half hours to go one and a half miles over that rock scramble.
At 7 pm I arrived at the shelter, that place was crowded. It looked like a tent city and there were a dozen people around the shelter. There was a boy scout troop with 10 boys and 4 escorts, a men's hiking group of 6 and probably another 6 or 8 people. Hellcat had tented near the shelter and Major Tom found a spot in the shelter. I searched around and found a small spot up the trail where I set up my tent. I filtered some water and cooked my dinner. From where I was I could hear the voices from the shelter and felt sorry for Major Tom who probably wanted to sleep. He told me the next day that the commotion went on until 11 pm. At least we went over the 300 mile mark on the trail that day.
Sunday, July 1, 2018
Sunday June 24, Miles today 11, miles from Springer 285.5
Hellcat and Major Tom left the Holiday Inn at 8 am in order to turn the car in early at Asheville and save a day on the rental. Rodney and Carmen picked me up at 9 am and we followed them. I was able to catch up on things going on at work, which I did not miss. We also talked about their daughters dance career in New York City we well with updates on family and friends. We picked up Hellcat and Major Tom in Asheville and made the windy drive up to Hot Springs where we had lunch at the Iron Horse Restaurant. While eating the rain started coming down pretty good and we dawdled around until it ended.
At about 1:30 the rain ended and a very hot sun came out and dried things up pretty good but in the process it became pretty humid. Rodney and Carmen saw us off as we donned our backpacks and continued on. The trail crossed the French Broad River then followed it for about a half mile. Then we started the first 1500 foot climb. The head and humidity was pretty oppressive and we had to stop a couple times in shade to rest. At about 3 pm another thunder storm came in to cool things off. It really rained hard and the trail was starting to flood. We stopped and considered setting up a tent to get some shelter, we were actually shivering from cold even though I doubt the temperature dipped below 70 F. In a matter of two hours we went from over heating to cold. Instead we put on our rain gear and started up another climb. That climb was easier despite the flooding because it was cooler.
We finally arrived at Spring Mountain Shelter at about 7 pm where we met a couple local backpackers. They had started a small smoky fire to smoke out the mosquitoes and Major Tom snapped at them reminding me of Igor a few weeks earlier coming in wet and tired after a day's hiking. We patched things up and set up. Another man came in named "Crossing America for Wounded Veterans". He was a 32 year old that left the Marine Corps a few years earlier that was trekking and bicycling around America raising money. He had hike the Pacific Crest Trail, ridden his bicycle from New England to Washington and California to Georgia and now he was hiking the Appalachian trail. He had acquired some sponsors but was still on a pretty meager budget. He was planning on hiking the Continental Divide Trail next year.
At about 1:30 the rain ended and a very hot sun came out and dried things up pretty good but in the process it became pretty humid. Rodney and Carmen saw us off as we donned our backpacks and continued on. The trail crossed the French Broad River then followed it for about a half mile. Then we started the first 1500 foot climb. The head and humidity was pretty oppressive and we had to stop a couple times in shade to rest. At about 3 pm another thunder storm came in to cool things off. It really rained hard and the trail was starting to flood. We stopped and considered setting up a tent to get some shelter, we were actually shivering from cold even though I doubt the temperature dipped below 70 F. In a matter of two hours we went from over heating to cold. Instead we put on our rain gear and started up another climb. That climb was easier despite the flooding because it was cooler.
We finally arrived at Spring Mountain Shelter at about 7 pm where we met a couple local backpackers. They had started a small smoky fire to smoke out the mosquitoes and Major Tom snapped at them reminding me of Igor a few weeks earlier coming in wet and tired after a day's hiking. We patched things up and set up. Another man came in named "Crossing America for Wounded Veterans". He was a 32 year old that left the Marine Corps a few years earlier that was trekking and bicycling around America raising money. He had hike the Pacific Crest Trail, ridden his bicycle from New England to Washington and California to Georgia and now he was hiking the Appalachian trail. He had acquired some sponsors but was still on a pretty meager budget. He was planning on hiking the Continental Divide Trail next year.
Saturday, June 23, 2018
Saturday June 23, miles today 0, miles from Springer 274.5
Road Trip Day 2 - We got up and ate breakfast at the hotel then decided to extend our stay one day. We would drive down to Atlanta to drop off Obi Wan then return.
We got on the road at about 10 am and arrived in Atlanta shortly after noon. After Obi Wan checked into his hotel we to the "MARTA" (commuter train) downtown where we were looking for a German Beer Garden to watch the Germany vs Sweden World Cup game.
We found the "Der Biergarten" and went up the stairs to get in. As we walked you could hear several people talking in German, I think I saw a smile on Hellcat's face like he found a little piece of home. The place was packed with people many with German's team uniforms, their flag's colors painted on their cheeks or forehead, one girl even had flags in her hair. The game was very exciting. The Swedes scored a goal in the first half but the Germans scored a tying goal at the beginning of the second half. Finally in the 94th minute with only seconds left to play Germany scored a second goal. The entire place erupted with cheer. It was the first time since I met Hellcat that I saw him express any emotion.
We took the Marta back to Obi Wan's hotel and had a long good bye. We exchanged email addresses and phone numbers, we thought about future hikes we might take in the future. We are all going to miss Obi Wan very much.
We drove back to Anderson and made very good time. The folks in Georgia and South Carolina seem to drive very fast. After getting back Hellcat, Major Tom and I went to a Chinese Buffet then went off to do our separate activities.
We got on the road at about 10 am and arrived in Atlanta shortly after noon. After Obi Wan checked into his hotel we to the "MARTA" (commuter train) downtown where we were looking for a German Beer Garden to watch the Germany vs Sweden World Cup game.
We found the "Der Biergarten" and went up the stairs to get in. As we walked you could hear several people talking in German, I think I saw a smile on Hellcat's face like he found a little piece of home. The place was packed with people many with German's team uniforms, their flag's colors painted on their cheeks or forehead, one girl even had flags in her hair. The game was very exciting. The Swedes scored a goal in the first half but the Germans scored a tying goal at the beginning of the second half. Finally in the 94th minute with only seconds left to play Germany scored a second goal. The entire place erupted with cheer. It was the first time since I met Hellcat that I saw him express any emotion.
We took the Marta back to Obi Wan's hotel and had a long good bye. We exchanged email addresses and phone numbers, we thought about future hikes we might take in the future. We are all going to miss Obi Wan very much.
We drove back to Anderson and made very good time. The folks in Georgia and South Carolina seem to drive very fast. After getting back Hellcat, Major Tom and I went to a Chinese Buffet then went off to do our separate activities.
Friday June 22, Miles today 0, miles from Springer 274.5
Road Trip Day 1 - Today we started our 3 day road trip to get Obi Wan to Atlanta and get Major Tom healed.
Our shuttle driver arrived early before breakfast so we packed up quickly and got him to pick us up at our cabin. JC showed up in a 1988 Buick with the muffler starting to fail. We loaded up our backpacks in the trunk while I held my bump box in the back seat on my lap. As we drove down the curvy road toward Asheville JC told us stories about the area. We arrived at Asheville Airport where Major Tom picked up little Hyundai hatchback rental car. We squeezed our backpacks in the back and header for our first tourist destination Little Switzerland.
Obi Wan was curious of what was there. On the way we stopped at a Waffle House to share some American culture with Obi Wan and Hellcat. We then proceeded up a curvy road to our first destination. Shortly after 1 pm we arrived. The town consisted of a lodge with a restaurant and bar, another restaurant, post office and several souvenir shops. We walked through the souvenir shops and found mostly locally made crafts, we did not find any Swiss products until the last store where we found Swiss army knives made in Canada. We went to the lodge to see if we could watch the Switzerland vs Serbia World Cup game at the bar but the bar was closed. However the hostess let us in since we had the only authentic Swiss person in town with us. We were allowed to get beer from the restaurant and order lunch but other than a couple visits by the cooks we had our own private screening of the game. It was very exciting and Switzerland won the game with a goal in the last couple minutes.
After the game we got reservations to stay at a Holiday Inn half way to Atlanta in Anderson. Our hotel was very close to the home of a friend of mine named Rodney so I invited Rodney to have a beer with us. We checked into the hotel and went to the steak house next door, Rodney and his wife showed up and we shared stories and technology theories.
Our shuttle driver arrived early before breakfast so we packed up quickly and got him to pick us up at our cabin. JC showed up in a 1988 Buick with the muffler starting to fail. We loaded up our backpacks in the trunk while I held my bump box in the back seat on my lap. As we drove down the curvy road toward Asheville JC told us stories about the area. We arrived at Asheville Airport where Major Tom picked up little Hyundai hatchback rental car. We squeezed our backpacks in the back and header for our first tourist destination Little Switzerland.
Obi Wan was curious of what was there. On the way we stopped at a Waffle House to share some American culture with Obi Wan and Hellcat. We then proceeded up a curvy road to our first destination. Shortly after 1 pm we arrived. The town consisted of a lodge with a restaurant and bar, another restaurant, post office and several souvenir shops. We walked through the souvenir shops and found mostly locally made crafts, we did not find any Swiss products until the last store where we found Swiss army knives made in Canada. We went to the lodge to see if we could watch the Switzerland vs Serbia World Cup game at the bar but the bar was closed. However the hostess let us in since we had the only authentic Swiss person in town with us. We were allowed to get beer from the restaurant and order lunch but other than a couple visits by the cooks we had our own private screening of the game. It was very exciting and Switzerland won the game with a goal in the last couple minutes.
After the game we got reservations to stay at a Holiday Inn half way to Atlanta in Anderson. Our hotel was very close to the home of a friend of mine named Rodney so I invited Rodney to have a beer with us. We checked into the hotel and went to the steak house next door, Rodney and his wife showed up and we shared stories and technology theories.
Thursday June 21, miles today 0, miles from Springer 274.5
We were a little bit of a quiet group today, Obi Wan has to get off the trail to return to Switzerland. We are going to miss him. We are also concerned with Major Tom, he needs to let his feet heal. Even though he has the blisters, a pulled tendon on the foot, and a mild ankle sprain he is determined to get back on the trail tomorrow. We are worried that if he does, he will not last a week and maybe cause worse damage.
In the morning after a good breakfast at the Mountain Diner, I started going through my gear- cleaning, repairing and organizing. I went to the outfitter and purchased some freeze dried food and a new hiking shirt. I went to the laundromat but discovered that all of the six washer machines and six dryers were out of order.
Obi Wan was having a very difficult time finding a shuttle to get him out of the mountains and then to Atlanta for his flight home. He needed to borrow my phone because he could not get call backs from messages with his Swiss phone number. An idea was starting to float through my head, Road Trip. If Major Tom or I could get to Asheville we could rent a car and see Obi Wan off to Atlanta and it would keep Major Tom off the trail perhaps long enough to heal. I mentioned the idea to Obi Wan and Hellcat and they liked it. When I mentioned the idea to Major Tom, he just rolled his eyes.
We had lunch, I then went to the Hillbilly Grocer for the rest of my resupply and some laundry soap. If I couldn't find a place to do laundry I would have to do it in the sink. I asked around and found out a nearby hostel would let you do it for $5. Hellcat and I trekked to the hostel while Obi Wan was still trying to find a shuttle.
After we returned from the hostel we mentioned the road trip idea again to Major Tom, he started to look for nearby places to rent a car. After seeing that the nearest location was 40 miles away he seemed to give up.
We went to dinner at Iron Horse Station. While dining, all of us expressed our concerns to Major Tom, but he was concerned with the logistics of getting to Asheville. Obi Wan disappeared leaving a beer half full. We paid the bill and as we were walking back to our cabin Obi Wan came running up and said he found a shuttle for the morning. He went across the street to the bar looking for a shuttle driver where he was pointed to a woman, unfortunately, she had crashed her car a few days earlier. She sent him to the outfitter store owner who called a friend who promised to pick us up at 9 am the next morning. After a whole day of calling drivers and leaving messages, looking for shuttle drivers, he accomplished his task by spending 15 minutes in a bar. I guess that is how things get done in some of these small towns.
We got back to our cabin and within WiFi range and Major Tom reserved a car in Asheville. Tomorrow ROAD TRIP.
In the morning after a good breakfast at the Mountain Diner, I started going through my gear- cleaning, repairing and organizing. I went to the outfitter and purchased some freeze dried food and a new hiking shirt. I went to the laundromat but discovered that all of the six washer machines and six dryers were out of order.
Obi Wan was having a very difficult time finding a shuttle to get him out of the mountains and then to Atlanta for his flight home. He needed to borrow my phone because he could not get call backs from messages with his Swiss phone number. An idea was starting to float through my head, Road Trip. If Major Tom or I could get to Asheville we could rent a car and see Obi Wan off to Atlanta and it would keep Major Tom off the trail perhaps long enough to heal. I mentioned the idea to Obi Wan and Hellcat and they liked it. When I mentioned the idea to Major Tom, he just rolled his eyes.
We had lunch, I then went to the Hillbilly Grocer for the rest of my resupply and some laundry soap. If I couldn't find a place to do laundry I would have to do it in the sink. I asked around and found out a nearby hostel would let you do it for $5. Hellcat and I trekked to the hostel while Obi Wan was still trying to find a shuttle.
After we returned from the hostel we mentioned the road trip idea again to Major Tom, he started to look for nearby places to rent a car. After seeing that the nearest location was 40 miles away he seemed to give up.
We went to dinner at Iron Horse Station. While dining, all of us expressed our concerns to Major Tom, but he was concerned with the logistics of getting to Asheville. Obi Wan disappeared leaving a beer half full. We paid the bill and as we were walking back to our cabin Obi Wan came running up and said he found a shuttle for the morning. He went across the street to the bar looking for a shuttle driver where he was pointed to a woman, unfortunately, she had crashed her car a few days earlier. She sent him to the outfitter store owner who called a friend who promised to pick us up at 9 am the next morning. After a whole day of calling drivers and leaving messages, looking for shuttle drivers, he accomplished his task by spending 15 minutes in a bar. I guess that is how things get done in some of these small towns.
We got back to our cabin and within WiFi range and Major Tom reserved a car in Asheville. Tomorrow ROAD TRIP.
Thursday, June 21, 2018
Wednesday June 20, miles today 13.1, miles from Springer 274.5
In the morning, Obi Wan and I finished wringing out our pads and sleeping bags, ate breakfast and were packing up when one of the eight women camped below, came up carrying her sopping wet tent. She threw it in the shelter and explained "This tent can't stop water, I am not carrying the useless thing out of here." I guess they had rain trouble as well.
We started on the trail with a 500 foot decent and then a 1000 foot climb. I felt better than I had the previous day. Obi Wan and Hellcat then sped down the 4 mile downhill to Garenflo Gap. I tried to keep up, but couldn't and took a pretty good fall. Major Tom was even slower than me with his bad feet. I stopped at a spring to clean off my scrapes, then descended at a more moderate pace. When I got to the Gap, Obi Wan and Hellcat were waiting. They decided to continue to Deer Park shelter to eat the last of their food for lunch, I stayed and waited for Major Tom. While waiting, two trucks with metal cages in the beds containing blood hounds drove up and parked in the gravel parking area. They asked me if I had seen or heard any hounds. They had several out between where I was and Hot Springs, tracking a rogue bear. The dogs had radio collars but once they got in the hills they lost the signal. At about 11 am, Major Tom came limping down the trail. He had twisted his ankle. I talked him into getting a ride to Hot Springs with one of the good ole boys.
I then started on the trail for Deer Park shelter hoping to catch up. I made very good time hiking the 3.4 miles in an hour and ten minutes arriving for lunch with Obi Wan and Hellcat. We ate the last of our food before heading down the trail for our last 3 miles to Hot Springs. As we moved to the lower altitude the flowers were in full bloom.
We walked into town and stopped at the first store we saw, The Hillbilly Grocer. We bought and quickly consumed apples, bananas, orange juice, chocolate and sodas. We then continued down the street and met Major Tom showered, fed and happy. He had gotten our cabin keys and directed us to where should go. I dropped off my pack and ran to the Post Office to pick up my bump box that I mailed from Fontana. Major Tom came back with some beer and we sat on the back deck to rest. At 4 pm the three of us went for another lunch while Major Tom took a nap. At 7 pm we went for dinner.
We started on the trail with a 500 foot decent and then a 1000 foot climb. I felt better than I had the previous day. Obi Wan and Hellcat then sped down the 4 mile downhill to Garenflo Gap. I tried to keep up, but couldn't and took a pretty good fall. Major Tom was even slower than me with his bad feet. I stopped at a spring to clean off my scrapes, then descended at a more moderate pace. When I got to the Gap, Obi Wan and Hellcat were waiting. They decided to continue to Deer Park shelter to eat the last of their food for lunch, I stayed and waited for Major Tom. While waiting, two trucks with metal cages in the beds containing blood hounds drove up and parked in the gravel parking area. They asked me if I had seen or heard any hounds. They had several out between where I was and Hot Springs, tracking a rogue bear. The dogs had radio collars but once they got in the hills they lost the signal. At about 11 am, Major Tom came limping down the trail. He had twisted his ankle. I talked him into getting a ride to Hot Springs with one of the good ole boys.
I then started on the trail for Deer Park shelter hoping to catch up. I made very good time hiking the 3.4 miles in an hour and ten minutes arriving for lunch with Obi Wan and Hellcat. We ate the last of our food before heading down the trail for our last 3 miles to Hot Springs. As we moved to the lower altitude the flowers were in full bloom.
We walked into town and stopped at the first store we saw, The Hillbilly Grocer. We bought and quickly consumed apples, bananas, orange juice, chocolate and sodas. We then continued down the street and met Major Tom showered, fed and happy. He had gotten our cabin keys and directed us to where should go. I dropped off my pack and ran to the Post Office to pick up my bump box that I mailed from Fontana. Major Tom came back with some beer and we sat on the back deck to rest. At 4 pm the three of us went for another lunch while Major Tom took a nap. At 7 pm we went for dinner.
Tuesday June 19, miles today 13.1, miles from Springer 261.4
It is late Spring and flowers are blooming. I decided to take pictures of them today but I don't know what they are.
We left Groundhog shelter at about 7:30 am and had an early climb, I was feeling a little fatigued and fell behind. By late morning I caught up as the guys were having coffee at Max Patch summit. Max Patch was an early colonial site where the settlers cleared the trees to graze livestock. The area was covered by low brush and blooming flowers with great views in every direction. There was parking nearby and several day hikers. For folks in the area this would be another nice two hour trip. The thunder storm came early so we got back on the trail and went down to Nealing Fork shelter for lunch. Three women came in led by one who had hiked the AT a couple years before. The eight women and three dogs we saw the night before started to trickle in and camped below. We ate and spent a couple hours trying to find a place to stay tomorrow at Hot Springs, NC.
That night there was a fierce thunder storm. I woke up and realized my feet were wet. The shelter was leaking. I woke Obi Wan who was in the same situation. We scrambled around drying our pads and sleeping bags and finding dry spots to sleep. We woke Major Tom, but no amount of thunder, the pounding of rain on a tin roof, scrambling and flash lights could wake Hellcat from his beauty rest.
We left Groundhog shelter at about 7:30 am and had an early climb, I was feeling a little fatigued and fell behind. By late morning I caught up as the guys were having coffee at Max Patch summit. Max Patch was an early colonial site where the settlers cleared the trees to graze livestock. The area was covered by low brush and blooming flowers with great views in every direction. There was parking nearby and several day hikers. For folks in the area this would be another nice two hour trip. The thunder storm came early so we got back on the trail and went down to Nealing Fork shelter for lunch. Three women came in led by one who had hiked the AT a couple years before. The eight women and three dogs we saw the night before started to trickle in and camped below. We ate and spent a couple hours trying to find a place to stay tomorrow at Hot Springs, NC.
Monday June 18, miles today 9.6, miles from Springer 248.3
We had a late start in the morning due to difficulty catching a shuttle
Before we left, Maniac and Snail Whisperer came in, they finished their trek through the Smokies and were catching a shuttle to Atlanta to fly back to Maine. We said our goodbyes and wished them luck. Finally, at about 10 am the owner of Standing Bear gave us a ride to Davenport Gap. We quickly crossed the Pigeon River and then started our 2700 foot climb. A couple miles up we stopped for lunch. As Obi Wan and Hellcat started cooking ramen, Major Tom announced we had a visitor, a bear snuck up to within 30 feet of us and was sniffing the air. Major Tom and I yelled at him and he began to pace back and forth. He then stood up and clawed a nearby tree trying to scare us. When that did not work he tried to sneak through some bushes to our right and come in at a different angle. We yelled again, Major Tom blew his whistle and finally the bear sat down between two trees to wait for us to leave. We finished lunch, cleaned up and started back up the trail. After we left, the bear came down to our lunch site but was disappointed to find nothing to eat. We were a little concerned the bear might stalk us so we decided to hike together for a while with me in the lead since I am the slowest.
On the way up the hill I started thinking about group dynamics and how we were such a good team. We certainly are diverse. Major Tom is very structured and and organized, he is constantly trying to improve the processes by putting routine around them. Obi Wan is a complete opposite, he is very bright, somewhat impulsive and generally a real happy guy. He gets us sidetracked and turns us into tourists. Hellcat is quietly competent and a master technician. I try to emulate his hiking foot placement. His habit of pulling out a large chocolate bar and sharing has rubbed off on the rest of us. I am kind of a mix of all three. Even though Obi Wan and Major Tom are opposite they get along great. Obi Wan has adopted much of Major Tom's structure while Major Tom is no longer nose to the grindstone hiking and open to Obi Wan's ideas on getting sidetracked for the tourist experience.
We finally arrived at our high point for the day at Snowbird Mtn and walked around the FAA tower appreciating the views. The almost daily thunder storm rolled in and we started for the next shelter. The race cars Obi Wan and Hellcat sped down while I stayed with Major Tom who was having even worse foot problems. In compensating for the blisters I think he pulled a tendon. I admire his drive and ability to work through the pain, but I worry about him.
We arrived at Groundhog shelter in early evening and shared it with a guy called Lumberjack, he said he got the name the previous year when he brought a four pound ax but the way he snored that night I will bet it was because he sounded like a chainsaw. I am adding ear plugs to my shopping list.
A little later eight women and three dogs trickle in and camped below us. Three college age guys left their packs on the trail and went down 1/4 of a mile for water. We showed them our lunch bear pictures and movies and warned them never to leave their packs unattended. They camped nearby.
Before we left, Maniac and Snail Whisperer came in, they finished their trek through the Smokies and were catching a shuttle to Atlanta to fly back to Maine. We said our goodbyes and wished them luck. Finally, at about 10 am the owner of Standing Bear gave us a ride to Davenport Gap. We quickly crossed the Pigeon River and then started our 2700 foot climb. A couple miles up we stopped for lunch. As Obi Wan and Hellcat started cooking ramen, Major Tom announced we had a visitor, a bear snuck up to within 30 feet of us and was sniffing the air. Major Tom and I yelled at him and he began to pace back and forth. He then stood up and clawed a nearby tree trying to scare us. When that did not work he tried to sneak through some bushes to our right and come in at a different angle. We yelled again, Major Tom blew his whistle and finally the bear sat down between two trees to wait for us to leave. We finished lunch, cleaned up and started back up the trail. After we left, the bear came down to our lunch site but was disappointed to find nothing to eat. We were a little concerned the bear might stalk us so we decided to hike together for a while with me in the lead since I am the slowest.
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| Uninvited Lunch guest, June 18, 2018 Click to zoom |
We finally arrived at our high point for the day at Snowbird Mtn and walked around the FAA tower appreciating the views. The almost daily thunder storm rolled in and we started for the next shelter. The race cars Obi Wan and Hellcat sped down while I stayed with Major Tom who was having even worse foot problems. In compensating for the blisters I think he pulled a tendon. I admire his drive and ability to work through the pain, but I worry about him.
We arrived at Groundhog shelter in early evening and shared it with a guy called Lumberjack, he said he got the name the previous year when he brought a four pound ax but the way he snored that night I will bet it was because he sounded like a chainsaw. I am adding ear plugs to my shopping list.
A little later eight women and three dogs trickle in and camped below us. Three college age guys left their packs on the trail and went down 1/4 of a mile for water. We showed them our lunch bear pictures and movies and warned them never to leave their packs unattended. They camped nearby.
Wednesday, June 20, 2018
Sunday June 17, miles today 15.7, miles from Springer 238.7
We got up late and started on the trail late. Mike, Ray, Maniac and his daughter were on the trail before us. Major Tom was still suffering from blisters so he got on the trail early as well. We stopped for coffee at a former helipad with a nice view. We caught up with Major Tom, Maniac and his daughter at Deer Creek Gap. Major Tom had his shoes off and had problems with his toes. We had met Maniac and his daughter on the way up into the Smokies from Fontana. Maniac had hiked the AT a couple years earlier, he and his mid twenty daughter were section hiking the national parks. The daughter did not have a trail name. During our chat at the Gap she admitted to spending time saving the snails that had made there way on to the trail from us clumsy hikers by removing them to safer places. We stopped at Cosby Knob shelter and again Maniac and daughter caught up with us. This time, the daughter described saving two snails and being a Matchmaker. At that point I suggested her trail name should be Snail Whisperer. After a little discussion it was agreed on, she now had a trail name.
We took a little side trip for lunch a climbed to Mt. Cammerer to a fire tower. It was a rocky climb but the trip was worth it. We lunched on the balcony. We then continued on the trail determined to get to Davenport Gap and possibly stay at Standing Bear hostel.
When we arrived at the Gap we got enough cell service to call for a shuttle. A pickup truck half full of debris arrived and the driver told us to get in the back. When we arrived at the hostel we saw a what appeared to be a combination hippie/redneck commune. We put our gear in the bunk house and were shown around. They had a shower that sometimes had hot water, an outhouse, a communal kitchen, a laundry room with a sink and wash boards and a pretty modern dryer and small store run on the honor system, you wrote down what you took and paid for it when you left. They did have beer. They had a work for stay program where if you worked you got a bunk, if you worked hard you could get a meal and if you worked really hard you might get a beer. It appeared that all the employees were on the work for stay program. We got some beer and cooked some frozen pizzas. We never really unpacked our backpacks, just got out our sleeping bags and laid them on the bunks when we were ready to sleep.
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| Tower at Mt. Cammerer, June 17, 2018 |
When we arrived at the Gap we got enough cell service to call for a shuttle. A pickup truck half full of debris arrived and the driver told us to get in the back. When we arrived at the hostel we saw a what appeared to be a combination hippie/redneck commune. We put our gear in the bunk house and were shown around. They had a shower that sometimes had hot water, an outhouse, a communal kitchen, a laundry room with a sink and wash boards and a pretty modern dryer and small store run on the honor system, you wrote down what you took and paid for it when you left. They did have beer. They had a work for stay program where if you worked you got a bunk, if you worked hard you could get a meal and if you worked really hard you might get a beer. It appeared that all the employees were on the work for stay program. We got some beer and cooked some frozen pizzas. We never really unpacked our backpacks, just got out our sleeping bags and laid them on the bunks when we were ready to sleep.
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| Welcome to Appalachia, Hostel/Commune, June 17, 2018 |
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| Cozy accommodations, June 17, 2018 |
Saturday June 16, miles today 15.7, miles from Springer 223
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| NC/TN State Line, June 16, 2018 |
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| Scenic backcountry privy, June 16, 2018 |
Privies - privies also known as out houses in the Backcountry have an interesting twist out on the trail from the Smokies to Georgia. The Appalachian Trail Conference (ATC) has convinced the federal government to help fund the building and maintenance of privies and they must adhere to some of the government's regulations. So you hike several miles over rugged mountains to get to a shelter, then over an often difficult trail to get to the privies but when you arrive the privies have wheelchair accessibility including a ramp and first class bars.
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| Federally funded privy, June 16, 2018 |
Saturday, June 16, 2018
For Sunday, June 17th - HAPPY FATHER'S DAY, DAD!
This blog has been temporarily been hijacked by Path's loving daughters who wished to take the time to wish him a wonderful Father's Day holiday on his most active social media platform!
Dad, we are so proud of you. Since retirement you've become a different, refreshed human being and it seems like this trip is only making you better. We follow your every post and wait for your witty quips so we can tell our friends, coworkers, and strangers what you've been up to on a daily basis.
As always, be safe; don't do that thing where you go too fast along the trail that you slip and smack your ankle on a rock that happened to be right there where you placed your foot. Take your time, smells the flowers, enjoy the company, maybe get in a few swigs of that Gatlinburg moonshine, and have fun!
When you get back, we'll have some good rib-eye ready to put on the grill and we'll enjoy a nice bottle of wine out on the porch in the summer evening. It'll be a great time.
Love,
Amy, Shannon, and Michelle (and the grandchild + dogs + cats)
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| Spawn #2 and Spawn #1 casually chilling in the backyard |
Dad, we are so proud of you. Since retirement you've become a different, refreshed human being and it seems like this trip is only making you better. We follow your every post and wait for your witty quips so we can tell our friends, coworkers, and strangers what you've been up to on a daily basis.
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| Spawn #2 forcing Spawn #3 to show some emotion |
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| Spawn #3 being supervised by Spawn #1 |
When you get back, we'll have some good rib-eye ready to put on the grill and we'll enjoy a nice bottle of wine out on the porch in the summer evening. It'll be a great time.
Love,
Amy, Shannon, and Michelle (and the grandchild + dogs + cats)
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| Grandspawn taking in an evening movie |
Friday June 15, miles today 0, miles from Springer 207.3
A day in Gatlinburg was a different type of experience for an AT hiker. We ate to a good free breakfast at the hotel, did our laundry and then went to the outfitter. Major Tom bought some new low ankle boots and trekking poles as well as a new light weight coffee cup. He has been missing out on some of our mid morning coffee breaks on the trail due to not having a convenient cup. He has been trying to keep his caffeine down so he bought some cocoa. We went for pizza for lunch where the four of us each ordered our own 12 inch pizza. The waitress couldn't believe it after we all finished our entire order. The world cup was on the TV so Hellcat ordered a beer and stayed to watch, while Obi Wan went back to the room for a call with his girlfriend and Major Tom and I went grocery shopping.
Major Tom bought an apple and turkey leg and had dinner in his room while Hellcat, Obi Wan and I went to a steak house. After dinner we strolled around the town with the huge crowds and traffic to see the sites. There a live bluegrass band playing at the moonshine distillery where we stopped for a bit but mostly we watched the people walking by. After some ice cream we returned to the room to get ready for tomorrow.
A day of walking around on the hot sidewalks caused my my feet to swell up worse than any day on the trail. While Gatlinburg was an experience I will be glad to be back on the trail.
Major Tom bought an apple and turkey leg and had dinner in his room while Hellcat, Obi Wan and I went to a steak house. After dinner we strolled around the town with the huge crowds and traffic to see the sites. There a live bluegrass band playing at the moonshine distillery where we stopped for a bit but mostly we watched the people walking by. After some ice cream we returned to the room to get ready for tomorrow.
A day of walking around on the hot sidewalks caused my my feet to swell up worse than any day on the trail. While Gatlinburg was an experience I will be glad to be back on the trail.
Friday, June 15, 2018
Thursday June 14, miles today 12.2, miles from Springer 207.3
After a good breakfast we started the climb of Clingmans Dome. We were hoping for less fog and more views but were disappointed. It was not a difficult climb and we arrived at about 9:30. We carried our backpacks up a large circular walkway to the top of the observation tower and took a few pictures of each other with a thick fog in the background. Every once in a while there was a patch of blue sky so we went down to the base of the tower, made coffee and lingered hoping for enough clear skies to some of the 100 mile view. There was a parking lot a half mile from the tower and several tourists. Many stopped to ask questions about our experiences, what we eat, how we resupply, etc. We were a minor tourist attraction.
At about 11 am we gave up on the skies clearing and continued down the trail. We made good time and arrived at Newfound Gap at 2:30 to a large parking lot full of cars. This was the site of the Rockefeller monument dedicated for the money the Rockefeller family donated t help buy the land for the park. It was also the site of where the Appalachian trail passed and with our backpacks and conspicuous odor we became live exhibits. Many people stopped and asked questions. One family even offered us trail magic of snacks which we gratefully accepted. The signs said do not feed the animals but some people like to live on the edge. After struggling to find cell phone service we were finally able to call a shuttle. It was scheduled to arrive at 4 and arrived finally at 4:30, that must be eastern Tennessee time. Leanne, our driver, took us down the scenic US Route 441. Wherever there was a creek, trailhead or view cars were lined up along the side of the highway. Leanne said on the weekends you needed to park by 7 am or you would not find a spot. Shortly after 5 pm we arrived at the tourist Mecca of Gatlinburg with over 100 hotels, 70 restaurants, countless stores, shops, fun houses and oddities. The county is also home of a large amusement park Dollywood, founded by country singer Dolly Parton. The local women all seemed to speak like Dolly with that delightful eastern Tennessee twang.
We checked into the Quality Inn, showered and went to dinner where we decided to stay an extra day despite the premium hotel price for a Friday night. Obi Wan has to return to Switzerland in 10 days and really wanted to see more of the southeastern American culture. He did not have a hard time convincing the rest of us. After dinner we strolled down the main Street looking at the stores, shops and oddities. Obi Wan observed that the place was a teenager paradise.
At about 11 am we gave up on the skies clearing and continued down the trail. We made good time and arrived at Newfound Gap at 2:30 to a large parking lot full of cars. This was the site of the Rockefeller monument dedicated for the money the Rockefeller family donated t help buy the land for the park. It was also the site of where the Appalachian trail passed and with our backpacks and conspicuous odor we became live exhibits. Many people stopped and asked questions. One family even offered us trail magic of snacks which we gratefully accepted. The signs said do not feed the animals but some people like to live on the edge. After struggling to find cell phone service we were finally able to call a shuttle. It was scheduled to arrive at 4 and arrived finally at 4:30, that must be eastern Tennessee time. Leanne, our driver, took us down the scenic US Route 441. Wherever there was a creek, trailhead or view cars were lined up along the side of the highway. Leanne said on the weekends you needed to park by 7 am or you would not find a spot. Shortly after 5 pm we arrived at the tourist Mecca of Gatlinburg with over 100 hotels, 70 restaurants, countless stores, shops, fun houses and oddities. The county is also home of a large amusement park Dollywood, founded by country singer Dolly Parton. The local women all seemed to speak like Dolly with that delightful eastern Tennessee twang.
We checked into the Quality Inn, showered and went to dinner where we decided to stay an extra day despite the premium hotel price for a Friday night. Obi Wan has to return to Switzerland in 10 days and really wanted to see more of the southeastern American culture. He did not have a hard time convincing the rest of us. After dinner we strolled down the main Street looking at the stores, shops and oddities. Obi Wan observed that the place was a teenager paradise.
Wednesday June 13, miles today 15.8, miles from Springer 195.1
Obi Wan and I escaped out of the crowded Mollies ridge shelter early after a quick cup of coffee and a power bar. Major Tom and Hellcat were not far behind. It was very foggy, visibility was bad. We went about six miles and stopped on top of a grassy hill called Spence Field for a proper breakfast. I had coffee, grits and chocolate. It was a pretty eerie scene with all the fog morning over the hill. The trail from there to our Derick Knob shelter changed from a shared horse/hiker trail to a hiker only trail and became exceedingly rugged with extreme ups and downs but lots of great views, unfortunately the fog and now rain ruined the views. We arrived at Derick Knob shelter at about 1 pm and had lunch. We then decided to go 6 more miles to Silers Knob shelter which would position us for an early climb the next day of Clingmans Dome, the highest point on the AT.
A visit to an outfitter was now becoming more important for Major Tom. He was now hiking in his spare Nike running shoes because his high ankle boots were tearing up his feet but his running shoes were slipping on a lot of the rocks. He had a nasty fall the previous day where he broke one of his trekking poles. Engineer that he is he did a great job with a stick and duct tape repairing it but today he took another fall bending the other pole.
About two miles before our day's destination I came across a young couple where the girl was walking barefoot without a pack and the guy was carrying everything. I guess she decided to throw away her high heels. I wondered if they knew about the nasty rocks coming up. They were smiling and having a good time so I wished them luck and continued on.
We made it to Silers Knob shelter in early evening and shared it with a father and three children who were hiking from Hot Springs, NC to Springer, a 275 mile hike. Estimating the kids ages I would say a 14 year old girl, 11 year old boy and a 9 year old girl. They seemed very organized and the kids morale seemed good, I think they will make it if they have enough time.
A visit to an outfitter was now becoming more important for Major Tom. He was now hiking in his spare Nike running shoes because his high ankle boots were tearing up his feet but his running shoes were slipping on a lot of the rocks. He had a nasty fall the previous day where he broke one of his trekking poles. Engineer that he is he did a great job with a stick and duct tape repairing it but today he took another fall bending the other pole.
About two miles before our day's destination I came across a young couple where the girl was walking barefoot without a pack and the guy was carrying everything. I guess she decided to throw away her high heels. I wondered if they knew about the nasty rocks coming up. They were smiling and having a good time so I wished them luck and continued on.
We made it to Silers Knob shelter in early evening and shared it with a father and three children who were hiking from Hot Springs, NC to Springer, a 275 mile hike. Estimating the kids ages I would say a 14 year old girl, 11 year old boy and a 9 year old girl. They seemed very organized and the kids morale seemed good, I think they will make it if they have enough time.
Thursday, June 14, 2018
Tuesday June 12, miles today 12.9, miles from Springer 177.3
After breakfast we caught the first shuttle out back to the trail. Ray and two other hikers were on the same shuttle but they were being dropped off further along at the Dam. Three other hikers were at the front door at 6:30 waiting for a special shuttle but I guess they didn't know about Western Carolina time, their driver didn't show up til 8 am.
We got on the trail at the marina since that is where we left off. A mile and a half we got to a Fontana shelter, also known as the Fontana Hilton. It sleeps 24 and comes equipped with flush toilets, showers and a phone charging station. A half mile further we arrived at the Dam. Hellcat, Obi Wan and I became tourists while Major Tom crossed the dam and continued up the trail. Finally after 45 minutes of looking at the structure and displays at the visitor center we too crossed the dam.
We climbed 2700 feet in pretty high humidity. Despite this I think we were feeling pretty good due to the zero day. Obi Wan and Hellcat were hiking ahead of me like usual until I came upon them standing in the trail. Ahead of us about 100 feet was a mother bear and two cubs, one of the cubs was standing on the trail. I showed them how I learned to deal with this situation as I learned years before as a young cowboy working in the Sierra Nevadas. I calmly announced our presence, which she already knew, "hello mother bear". I then asked her for permission to pass, "mother bear, may we continue on the trail?". I then continued to talk calmly and reassuringly. The cubs scampered to the other side of the mother and she then ambled down the hill. When she was over 100 feet from the trail we continued down the trail, as we passed I thanked her "thank you mother bear".
We continued to Mollies ridge shelter and there were already quite a few people there. We considered going three more miles to Russell Field shelter but found out it was closed due to bear problems. By 7:30 pm there were 21 people there. The national parks require all hikers sleep in shelters. If there are too many people then thru hikers must tent. We settled in cooked our dinners, bedded down in that mass of humanity.
We got on the trail at the marina since that is where we left off. A mile and a half we got to a Fontana shelter, also known as the Fontana Hilton. It sleeps 24 and comes equipped with flush toilets, showers and a phone charging station. A half mile further we arrived at the Dam. Hellcat, Obi Wan and I became tourists while Major Tom crossed the dam and continued up the trail. Finally after 45 minutes of looking at the structure and displays at the visitor center we too crossed the dam.
We climbed 2700 feet in pretty high humidity. Despite this I think we were feeling pretty good due to the zero day. Obi Wan and Hellcat were hiking ahead of me like usual until I came upon them standing in the trail. Ahead of us about 100 feet was a mother bear and two cubs, one of the cubs was standing on the trail. I showed them how I learned to deal with this situation as I learned years before as a young cowboy working in the Sierra Nevadas. I calmly announced our presence, which she already knew, "hello mother bear". I then asked her for permission to pass, "mother bear, may we continue on the trail?". I then continued to talk calmly and reassuringly. The cubs scampered to the other side of the mother and she then ambled down the hill. When she was over 100 feet from the trail we continued down the trail, as we passed I thanked her "thank you mother bear".
We continued to Mollies ridge shelter and there were already quite a few people there. We considered going three more miles to Russell Field shelter but found out it was closed due to bear problems. By 7:30 pm there were 21 people there. The national parks require all hikers sleep in shelters. If there are too many people then thru hikers must tent. We settled in cooked our dinners, bedded down in that mass of humanity.
Monday, June 11, 2018
Monday June 11, miles today 0, miles from Springer 164.4
After a leisurely breakfast, several cups of coffee and updates to the blog we went down to the General Store/ laundry/ Post Office for resupply. I picked up my supply box, sold some food to the guys and then went into the general store to buy candy bars and other overpriced supplies to get us through four days until we resupply again in Gatlinburg.
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| Resupply, Hellcat, Major Tom, Obi-Wan, and Path, June 11, 2018 |
My recalibration is going well though different than I expected. I have become the social director for our group. I find myself taking interest in most people. This morning a woman was shaping plants on an arbor by the swimming pool. I complimented her on the plants she was working on. She told me how the flowering vines would grow all Summer and soon cover the entire arbor. She then showed me the other parts of her garden. The odd thing was I was genuinely interested. I have never been like this my entire life. It turns out she is the assistant manager to the facility and the garden is her hobby. It can really pay to be genuinely interested.
Another responsibility is to figure out trail names for hikers that don't have one. All the names in this blog are either a real first name or their trail name. The trail names are a lot more fun. Once the older Mike goes back to Phoenix I will figure out a name for the younger one.
We spent most of the afternoon lounging around and taking advantage of the amenities of the resort. In the evening after dinner we did any last minute cleaning of our equipment, packed our backpacks and reviewed our maps and guides. Tomorrow we start the trek through the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.
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| Obi-Wan and Hellcat taking advantage of the amenities, June 11, 2018 |
Sunday June 10, miles today 5.6, miles from Springer 164.4
We were all up pretty early eager to get to Fontana Dam for food, rest and resupply. Our packs were light as we were almost out of food. I was first on the trail but Hellcat passed me at high speed. We were all at the Fontana marina by 9:45 drinking Coke and enjoying the luxury of flush toilets and running water. There was even an electric outlet where I plugged in my dead phone. At 10 am a hotel shuttle came and brought us to the lodge. We were lucky and were able to check into our rooms immediately just before the breakfast buffet closed. As we walked to the restaurant I remembered my phone back at the marina. The guys went to breakfast as I ran to the lobby to try for the shuttle. It had just left with three AT hikers but the receptionist call them back for me. I met the three hikers including Cowboy who I had seen but not met Franklin, a woman called Short Punch who was hiking with a man with a trail name of Pikachu (who was delighted I knew about Pokemon). When we arrived at the marina my phone was still there and my fellow hikers gave me a cheer. We dropped them off at the Dam and returned to the lodge too late for breakfast. I was allowed to go sit with my friends. They snuck me some of their food.
At noon we went down to the General Store/laundry/post office. We were a little disappointed because the general store had a limited selection for backpacker supply and the post office where I was expecting a food box did not open until 11:45 the following day. We decided to take a zero day and stay one more night so we could concentrate on resupply the following day. We finished our wash, picked up some beer and returned to our rooms for a little relaxation.
In the early evening I went down to the pool area to wait for the guys for our stroll to the Bar and Grill. While waiting I met another hiker named Ray, he is from Sydney, Australia. Like me he is a retired refugee from the Information Technology (IT) field. We briefly compared careers and hiking experience. When the guys came down the five of us went to dinner. At the bar and grill we met Mike and Mike. The seven of us ordered huge dinners with double vegetables. We ate, drank, talked and laughed. At the end of dinner there was not a scrap left. It was the first time in five days that I was not hungry. It's incredible how much food is required to sustain this hike. I slept very nicely that night.
At noon we went down to the General Store/laundry/post office. We were a little disappointed because the general store had a limited selection for backpacker supply and the post office where I was expecting a food box did not open until 11:45 the following day. We decided to take a zero day and stay one more night so we could concentrate on resupply the following day. We finished our wash, picked up some beer and returned to our rooms for a little relaxation.
In the early evening I went down to the pool area to wait for the guys for our stroll to the Bar and Grill. While waiting I met another hiker named Ray, he is from Sydney, Australia. Like me he is a retired refugee from the Information Technology (IT) field. We briefly compared careers and hiking experience. When the guys came down the five of us went to dinner. At the bar and grill we met Mike and Mike. The seven of us ordered huge dinners with double vegetables. We ate, drank, talked and laughed. At the end of dinner there was not a scrap left. It was the first time in five days that I was not hungry. It's incredible how much food is required to sustain this hike. I slept very nicely that night.
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| The Big Feed ad Fontana Lake Resort. Clockwise, from left: Obi-Wan, Major Tom, Hellcat, Older Mike, Younger Mike and Ray, June 10, 2018. |
Saturday June 9, miles today 15.2, miles from Springer 158.8
I got up early as has become my habit, got the food bags down, made my breakfast using the last of my oatmeal and was starting to pack up when the rest of the folks at the shelter started to rise. Igor was a lot more friendly and quizzed me on the type food and equipment I use. He needs to get the weight on his 70 lb pack down.
I was off at dawn, climbing Cheoah Bald. The last half mile was a very steep 35 degree incline. Any incline over 20 degrees will stop me, and I end up resting for 30 seconds as I go up. To make sure I continue, I count steps in increments of 100, 200 or 400. I have learned that 2400 of my steps is one mile. I often keep count which let's me know how close I am to finishing a climb.
When I finally got to the top, I found John camped, with his camera tripod set up. He was just boiling water for coffee and offered me some-- if I could provide my own cup. By now I had started carrying my coffee cup in the top of my pack and quickly joined him. The views were spectacular. You could the mountain tops and fog between them in the lower elevations. I even got out my phone to take a couple pictures. Despite the view, the bugs were swarming making it a little uncomfortable. I was a little surprised how the gnats and flies swarmed at the top of mountains and there was not many at the lower elevations. I finished my coffee and got back on the trail.
About 7 miles into the hike I decended to Stecoah Gap which had a highway running through. Obi Wan, Major Tom and Hellcat had just caught up, when a man in a white minivan drove up. He owned a couple hostels near by and wanted to know if we wanted to stay. We were looking forward to getting to Fontana Dam the next day and needed to put in a lot more miles today so we turned him down. It is amazing how much business the AT hikers bring to this area. The local people are genuinely friendly. The man gave us some water and went on his way.
A couple miles further we stopped at a pretty run down Brown Fork shelter for lunch. We waited out a little rain then continued another six miles to Cable Gap shelter. I was the last one in and tired. I remembered how grouchy Igor was the previous night so I stayed quiet until I recovered. Major Tom made reservations at the Fontana Dam Resort for the following night. We were all looking forward to showers, food and beer the next day.
I was off at dawn, climbing Cheoah Bald. The last half mile was a very steep 35 degree incline. Any incline over 20 degrees will stop me, and I end up resting for 30 seconds as I go up. To make sure I continue, I count steps in increments of 100, 200 or 400. I have learned that 2400 of my steps is one mile. I often keep count which let's me know how close I am to finishing a climb.
When I finally got to the top, I found John camped, with his camera tripod set up. He was just boiling water for coffee and offered me some-- if I could provide my own cup. By now I had started carrying my coffee cup in the top of my pack and quickly joined him. The views were spectacular. You could the mountain tops and fog between them in the lower elevations. I even got out my phone to take a couple pictures. Despite the view, the bugs were swarming making it a little uncomfortable. I was a little surprised how the gnats and flies swarmed at the top of mountains and there was not many at the lower elevations. I finished my coffee and got back on the trail.
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| View from Cheoah Bald, June 9, 2018 |
About 7 miles into the hike I decended to Stecoah Gap which had a highway running through. Obi Wan, Major Tom and Hellcat had just caught up, when a man in a white minivan drove up. He owned a couple hostels near by and wanted to know if we wanted to stay. We were looking forward to getting to Fontana Dam the next day and needed to put in a lot more miles today so we turned him down. It is amazing how much business the AT hikers bring to this area. The local people are genuinely friendly. The man gave us some water and went on his way.
A couple miles further we stopped at a pretty run down Brown Fork shelter for lunch. We waited out a little rain then continued another six miles to Cable Gap shelter. I was the last one in and tired. I remembered how grouchy Igor was the previous night so I stayed quiet until I recovered. Major Tom made reservations at the Fontana Dam Resort for the following night. We were all looking forward to showers, food and beer the next day.
Sunday, June 10, 2018
Friday June 8, miles today 7.1, miles from Springer 143.6
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| Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC), June 8, 2018 |
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| Behind NOC, June, 8 2018 |
I caught up with the two sports cars at Swim Bald just in time for coffee. Major Tom came by, but continued to Sassafras Gap shelter. It was starting to get cloudy so we packed up and headed for the shelter a mile away and arrived just before the thunder, lightning and pouring rain. We decided to stay as we were trying to time our arrival to Fontana Dam.
We had a couple people stop by during the afternoon. John came running in 15 minutes after the storm started and stayed until the weather cleared up. He was planning on camping at the top of Cheoah Bald. Later in the early evening Igor and Elizabeth, a father/daughter team came in to camp. Igor's pack must have weighed over 65 lbs. He was pretty grouchy and exhausted when he came in and we were pretty careful.
Friday, June 8, 2018
Thursday June 7, miles today 16.3, miles from Springer 136.5
I was up early, ate packed and getting ready to leave by the time the other guys were getting up. I got on the trail at 6:30. I love hiking in the cool early Morning and we were planning a long day.
About 6 miles along the trail I came across an elderly Chinese woman from NYC. She looked a little confused and said she was lost. We looked at a map and she was trying to go to the same place as me. We turned her around and got her going in the right direction. She was on a pretty long section hike and her trail name was 'Hi Again'. She stopped and called her son who was tracking her by GPS to tell him every thing was now okay. About 2 miles down the road at Telico Gap I stopped, sat down on a rock and took off my shoes. Along came Hi Again, she sat down and we chatted some more. The guys caught up and I introduced them. The four of us started the 1 1/2 mile climb up Wesser Bald where we sat under the watch tower, relaxed and ate lunch. Along came Hi Again. I was starting to understand how she got her trail name. She climbed the tower, took some pictures then went down the trail.
In the heat of the afternoon we started down the last 7 miles to our days destination Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC). Some of this trail was treacherous. There had been a forest fire the previous year and it was very exposed. It was a steep Rocky downhill where parts of the trail were washed out. In the middle of one of those sections I came across Hi Again, we said hi again. She looked a little flush so I asked her about her water. She warned me to be careful. She was a slow hiker but very steady and determined.
About 4:30 I arrived at the NOC where the guys were waiting for me. We rented a very Spartan room with two bunk beds, an air conditioner and a light. There were showers and a kitchen in the next building. I took a shower and went down to the store for beer and ice. Near the store I had one last Hi Again. She was waiting for her son who promised to take her to dinner.
About 6 miles along the trail I came across an elderly Chinese woman from NYC. She looked a little confused and said she was lost. We looked at a map and she was trying to go to the same place as me. We turned her around and got her going in the right direction. She was on a pretty long section hike and her trail name was 'Hi Again'. She stopped and called her son who was tracking her by GPS to tell him every thing was now okay. About 2 miles down the road at Telico Gap I stopped, sat down on a rock and took off my shoes. Along came Hi Again, she sat down and we chatted some more. The guys caught up and I introduced them. The four of us started the 1 1/2 mile climb up Wesser Bald where we sat under the watch tower, relaxed and ate lunch. Along came Hi Again. I was starting to understand how she got her trail name. She climbed the tower, took some pictures then went down the trail.
In the heat of the afternoon we started down the last 7 miles to our days destination Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC). Some of this trail was treacherous. There had been a forest fire the previous year and it was very exposed. It was a steep Rocky downhill where parts of the trail were washed out. In the middle of one of those sections I came across Hi Again, we said hi again. She looked a little flush so I asked her about her water. She warned me to be careful. She was a slow hiker but very steady and determined.
About 4:30 I arrived at the NOC where the guys were waiting for me. We rented a very Spartan room with two bunk beds, an air conditioner and a light. There were showers and a kitchen in the next building. I took a shower and went down to the store for beer and ice. Near the store I had one last Hi Again. She was waiting for her son who promised to take her to dinner.
Wednesday June 6, miles today 11, miles from Springer 115.1
I we started a little late probably due to the carb load at the Lazy Hiker the previous night. Obi-Wan had a 7 am call to Switzerland so after that we went to breakfast at the Kountry Kitchen. Obi wanted a little more sleep so I spent a couple of hours packing and updating the blog. At 11 am we caught a shuttle to the trailhead. I started out ok but heat of the afternoon wore me out especially the last climb up Wayah Bald. When I finally got to the top I found Obi-Wan and Hellcat lounging by the rock tower. Views were spectacular. We could see the Smokies in the distance. We decided to pool our last water and have dinner and coffee at our penthouse.
We finally got up and made the mile trek down to Wayah shelter. When we got there we found Major Tom who had a zero day there. He had cleaned and organized the shelter. Even the dirt in the vestibule was swept. We exchanged the day's stories and slept without any mice disturbing us.
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| View of the Smokey Mountains from Wesser Mountain |
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| Dinner a the penthouse |
We finally got up and made the mile trek down to Wayah shelter. When we got there we found Major Tom who had a zero day there. He had cleaned and organized the shelter. Even the dirt in the vestibule was swept. We exchanged the day's stories and slept without any mice disturbing us.
Wednesday, June 6, 2018
Tuesday June 5, miles today 0, miles from Springer 107.2
Zero day. A zero day for an AT hiker is a day of rest. We decided to take one in Franklin. Franklin is a hiker friendly town and they advertise it, in the trail guide, on signs and even in the names of some of the businesses.
I started out my day early by getting some breakfast at nearly Country Kitchen, then gathered all my clothes and washed them. By that time Obi-Wan and Hellcat were up and we went back to the Country Kitchen where I had a second breakfast. You really develop an appetite on the trail. We then went to the local outfitter where I bought a new stove, Hellcat bought new shoes and trekking poles and all of us bought some freeze dried food. Next to the grocery store for more food and then to lunch. We lounged around the afternoon cleaning and reorganizing our gear. We had dinner and went to the Lazy Hiker saloon where we carb-loaded.
It felt good to rest.
I started out my day early by getting some breakfast at nearly Country Kitchen, then gathered all my clothes and washed them. By that time Obi-Wan and Hellcat were up and we went back to the Country Kitchen where I had a second breakfast. You really develop an appetite on the trail. We then went to the local outfitter where I bought a new stove, Hellcat bought new shoes and trekking poles and all of us bought some freeze dried food. Next to the grocery store for more food and then to lunch. We lounged around the afternoon cleaning and reorganizing our gear. We had dinner and went to the Lazy Hiker saloon where we carb-loaded.
It felt good to rest.
Monday June 4, miles today 12.2, miles from Springer 109.2
As mentioned in the blog introduction the primary purpose of my hike is re-calibration. After working 40 years, nose to the grindstone, one develops "etched in stone" mindsets. Re-calibration is starting well.
Major Tom had moved on the previous afternoon to the next shelter, he now seems to be driven to get in as many miles as possible per day.
Obi-Wan, Hellcat and I started our morning with a 2 1/2 mile climb of Albert Mountain. This was a particularly hard climb due to the steepness and rock surface of the last 1/2 mile. I had to hold on trees and roots to get up some parts. I needed to rest every 100 steps.
When we got to the top, the morning view was spectacular. We took pictures and since we finally had cell coverage we all called home. There was a watchtower at the top and we climbed up as far as we could and enjoyed a better view. Hellcat the pulled out his stove and we had a nice coffee party. Hellcat and Obi Wan compared hiking in the Alps with here, I learned about Oktoberfest in Munich, we made a decision to take a zero-day in Franklin the next. At about 10:30 am we decided to get back on the trail. I hiked alone for a bit and started to wonder why I always was in a hurry. I am missing so much in trying to get in more miles, including the most delightful coffee parties.
It was a nice day to hike. We arrived at Winding Staircase Gap shortly after 3 and got lucky as Beverly, a shuttle driver happened to be driving by. She loaded us up, gave each of us a Georgia peach and drove us to another seedy Budget Inn. We checked in and I coincidentally was given room next to Major Tom. We caught up accidentally.
Major Tom had moved on the previous afternoon to the next shelter, he now seems to be driven to get in as many miles as possible per day.
Obi-Wan, Hellcat and I started our morning with a 2 1/2 mile climb of Albert Mountain. This was a particularly hard climb due to the steepness and rock surface of the last 1/2 mile. I had to hold on trees and roots to get up some parts. I needed to rest every 100 steps.
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| Uphill battle of Albert Mountain |
When we got to the top, the morning view was spectacular. We took pictures and since we finally had cell coverage we all called home. There was a watchtower at the top and we climbed up as far as we could and enjoyed a better view. Hellcat the pulled out his stove and we had a nice coffee party. Hellcat and Obi Wan compared hiking in the Alps with here, I learned about Oktoberfest in Munich, we made a decision to take a zero-day in Franklin the next. At about 10:30 am we decided to get back on the trail. I hiked alone for a bit and started to wonder why I always was in a hurry. I am missing so much in trying to get in more miles, including the most delightful coffee parties.
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| Coffee Party on Albert Mountain, Hellcat (L), and Obi-Wan (R) |
It was a nice day to hike. We arrived at Winding Staircase Gap shortly after 3 and got lucky as Beverly, a shuttle driver happened to be driving by. She loaded us up, gave each of us a Georgia peach and drove us to another seedy Budget Inn. We checked in and I coincidentally was given room next to Major Tom. We caught up accidentally.
Tuesday, June 5, 2018
Sunday June 3, miles today 11.3, miles from Springer 97
Bears! Bears! Bears! For the last several days we had been hearing about the bear problems in the area we're hiking. There were reports of a large wily black bear that has become an expert at getting to food sacks. Before I left the Top of Georgia hostel, I received a quick lesson from Bob the manager on hanging food bags, he prefers the double tree method where your send your cord up a tree then toss it over to another tree and tie it off. At Standing Indian shelter we had a little competition on hanging food bags. Obi-Wan and I used the double tree method, Hellcat used a double carabiner method where you throw your rope over a high branch, attach a carabiner to one end with your food bags, pull it all the way up then tie another carabiner as high as you can then let the rope slide back up, the second carabiner is stopped by the first and the only way to bring the food bag down is to pull the rope down, untie the second carabiner and let the food bags slide down. The rest of the folks at the shelter pretty much tied their food bags to the end of a line, threw it over a branch and tied to the tree trunk. After judging the merits everyone added their food bags to Hellcat's or our contraptions. We had no problems with bears.
We started our hiking with a two mile climb of Standing Indian mountain. At the top, there were about two dozen girls and six escorts from the YWCA taking pictures. They had been raided by bears. I heard they hung their bags over trees at about 5 foot off the ground, good enough to keep most rodents out, but the bears had a smorgasbord. I started to wonder if we were skillful or whether the bears were just full. Three miles further, there was a note at a campsite saying they had bear problems and warned to be careful how you hung your food bag. A mile and a half further we ran into Carter Gap shelter to escape a mid afternoon downpour and met two woman hikers who were planning on getting out at the next road because they had just been raided. They had just left their food outside their tents.
At about 5 pm we we stopped at Betty Creek campsite where the log book warned of two smaller bears. We set up our tents, cooked our dinners and hung out food bags using Hellcat's double carabiner method over a large leaning oak. We had no problems, but there was still a lingering question of whether we were skillful or whether the bears were just full from the weekend of hiker food.
We started our hiking with a two mile climb of Standing Indian mountain. At the top, there were about two dozen girls and six escorts from the YWCA taking pictures. They had been raided by bears. I heard they hung their bags over trees at about 5 foot off the ground, good enough to keep most rodents out, but the bears had a smorgasbord. I started to wonder if we were skillful or whether the bears were just full. Three miles further, there was a note at a campsite saying they had bear problems and warned to be careful how you hung your food bag. A mile and a half further we ran into Carter Gap shelter to escape a mid afternoon downpour and met two woman hikers who were planning on getting out at the next road because they had just been raided. They had just left their food outside their tents.
At about 5 pm we we stopped at Betty Creek campsite where the log book warned of two smaller bears. We set up our tents, cooked our dinners and hung out food bags using Hellcat's double carabiner method over a large leaning oak. We had no problems, but there was still a lingering question of whether we were skillful or whether the bears were just full from the weekend of hiker food.
Monday, June 4, 2018
Saturday June 2, miles today 16.7, miles from Springer 85.7
Busy day today, Major Tom and I caught the 8 am shuttle to the Dick's Creek Gap trailhead and started a long day of climbs and drops. Mostly climbs, we ended up 2100 feet higher.
I passed Major Tom about two miles up the trail and he told me my pack smelled like gasoline. I climbed the next hill which was long, steep and unusually straight before I stopped to investigate. Digging out my fuel bottle I found that a gasket was missing. I had an extra in my maintenance kit at the bottom of my pack so I started digging stuff out. In the process I dug out my sleeping bag which was perfect tightly packed cylinder. Seconds later I looked back and it was rolling down that long, steep, straight trail. I took off in a sprint but it was accelerating. After about 50 yards I finally caught up. What a waste of energy. I climbed back up the trail, fixed my fuel bottle, repacked my backpack and continued on.
About 9 miles along I arrived at the Ga-NC border. To celebrate the entry into my second state I decided to do something I have never done in my life, take a selfie. It was pretty ugly so I combed my hair and tried again, it didn't help.
About 1/4 mile further I came upon Obi Wan who was sitting on a log near the trail famous gnarly oak that represents the North Carolina border. As we took pictures of each other by the oak a woman backpacker and told us that there was bear problems here the previous night. About 50 yards off the trail was a tent so the 3 of us went over to investigate. The entry to the tent was torn off and there was the remains of food packages, a stove, some sleeping pads and other junk scattered around it. I guess a good lesson is don't keep food in your tent while in bear country.
Hellcat, Obi Wan and I arrived at Muskrat shelter at 5 pm to find a note from Major Tom saying he had gone on to Standing Indian mountain shelter 5 miles further. We decided to follow and arrived there pretty tired at 7:30.
I passed Major Tom about two miles up the trail and he told me my pack smelled like gasoline. I climbed the next hill which was long, steep and unusually straight before I stopped to investigate. Digging out my fuel bottle I found that a gasket was missing. I had an extra in my maintenance kit at the bottom of my pack so I started digging stuff out. In the process I dug out my sleeping bag which was perfect tightly packed cylinder. Seconds later I looked back and it was rolling down that long, steep, straight trail. I took off in a sprint but it was accelerating. After about 50 yards I finally caught up. What a waste of energy. I climbed back up the trail, fixed my fuel bottle, repacked my backpack and continued on.
About 9 miles along I arrived at the Ga-NC border. To celebrate the entry into my second state I decided to do something I have never done in my life, take a selfie. It was pretty ugly so I combed my hair and tried again, it didn't help.
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| NC/GA border selfie |
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| Bear ravaged camp |
Friday, June 1, 2018
Friday June 1, miles today 11, miles from Springer 69
After an early start I made the the day's destination, Dick's Creek Gap by one PM. A half mile down the road led to the "Top of Georgia" hostel. Major Tom and I evaluated our packs and mailed stuff home. He went from 43 lbs to 36, I went from 39 to 35. After showers we caught a ride into Hiawasse and had dinner at the AYCE (all you can eat buffet).
The Top of Georgia hostel is a money losing operation dedicated to serving hikers on the AT. There are 2 paid employees and the rest are volunteers or work for stay folks. They have bunks, a kitchen, a small resupply store and shuttles to tote hikers to or from the trailheads and local towns. They are very friendly and dedicated. I hiked there from the trailhead and the moment I set down my pack I was handed a soda (the first one is free) and welcomed. This place is a hiker rescue.
The Top of Georgia hostel is a money losing operation dedicated to serving hikers on the AT. There are 2 paid employees and the rest are volunteers or work for stay folks. They have bunks, a kitchen, a small resupply store and shuttles to tote hikers to or from the trailheads and local towns. They are very friendly and dedicated. I hiked there from the trailhead and the moment I set down my pack I was handed a soda (the first one is free) and welcomed. This place is a hiker rescue.
Thursday May 31, miles today 5.7, miles from Springer 58
After drying my tent, Obi-Wan, Major Tom and I went and had breakfast at the only non fast-food restaurant in town. We returned, grabbed our gear and tried to get a ride back to the trailhead. We finally got there at 11:30. We had to start with some big climbs over Rocky mountain and Tray mountain. On the way I met a hiker from Bavaria. We finally got to Tray mountain and decided to stay there. Our new German friend did not have a trail name so I named him Hellcat. Our threesome became a diverse foursome, a Pennsylvanian, a Bostonian, a Swiss and a German.
Thursday, May 31, 2018
Wednesday May 30, miles today 9.7, miles from Springer 52.3
After listening to the rain hitting the tin roof at Low Gap shelter all night Obi-Wan and I decided to make a run for hwy 75 at Unicoi Gap, get a ride to Hiawasse rent a room and dry out. About 9:30 am the rain let up and we took off. The trails were flooded often ankle deep. There were water falls every spot where there were high rocks. At Blue mountain shelter we took a rest and I called for a reservation at the Budget Inn. By that time Major Tom caught up with us and asked to share a ride with us, he needed drying out also.
At the top of Blue mountain, before I lost cell coverage, I called Joyce and Sally's shuttle service to pick us up at Unicoi. When we arrived, Big Red and Mak were waiting for the same service with the same idea. Sally arrived in her Subaru outback and picked up Big Red and Mak while we had to wait for the next trip. We were kind of curious at the lack of traffic and later found out there was a land slide and flooding just east of us and the road was closed. Sally arrived back at 2:30 and we loaded into her Subaru. Sally was an older lady that seemed to enjoy hikers and didn't mind their smell much. As she drove us to Hiawasse she told us about the road closures, tree falls and flooding river. When we got to town she gave us a quick tour pointing out the restaurants and other businesses. She showed us the two traffic signals on the main Street and then dropped us off.
The Budget Inn was a pretty humble place, (a month before, I probably wouldn't ever stop) but after the wet nights, felt like paradise. I split the cost with Obi-Wan for $22.50 apiece. After showers we went to the BBQ place, ate, and had a couple beers. Then over to the local grocery store for some resupply and a six pack. We turned up the heat in our room to start drying out some gear, put the clothes in the washer, sat outside the room and drank beer. We met another half dozen hikers staying at the motel.
Wednesday, May 30, 2018
Tuesday May 29, miles today 4.6,. Miles from Springer 42.6
It poured rain all night but I slept ok. Too much rain to make coffee so I ate more pita bread before packing up. Despite my best efforts a lot of my gear got wetter. I hiked 4.6 miles to the nearest shelter and arrived at 8 am to see 8 people packed in though shelter had a maximum capacity of 7. There was a nice eave on one side with a cooking shelf so I fired up the stove and cooked a dinner and coffee. Eventually 5 of the folks in the shelter decided to go. I decided to move in hoping to dry out.
Three of the people there decided to stay and try to wait out the storm and we started to share stories and information on equipment. All of us had just started the trail within the last week. There was a young couple from Texas, Big Red and Make, who were learning about mountains. Apparently they don't have many in Texas. Both had just graduated from school and were starting to figure out the job market. There was a guy about my age, Major Tom, who was an engineer with fascinating stories about the defense industry. About mid morning we were joined by Obi-Wan, a visitor from Switzerland. The rain continued and other folks came in. One gal stayed, a few continued on and some decided to put up their tents rather than to try to squeeze into the crowded shelter. Major Tom had a small weather radio that kept giving ominous reports of the storm.
Monday May 28, miles today 14.1, miles from Springer 38
Torrential rains started around 2am and lasted all day with no let up. Tropical storm Alberto caught up with me. Started out with a five mile climb of the highest point in GA- Blood Mountain. It was steep and rocky and when mixed with the rain and high winds... a pretty miserable hike.
Three miles further I arrived, at Neal's Gap where the trail passes through an old historic building that currently houses a hostel and a really good outfitter. I spent 3 hours there drying out and eating microwave pizza and drinking coffee. I also bought an extra backpacker's dinner and socks.
Reenergized I went back out in the rain and hiked another six miles. I finally had to set up my tent, I slept dry but a lot of my gear was soaked. I could not cook dinner so I ate some pita bread and jerky.
Sunday May 27, miles today 11.7, miles from Springer 23.9
Up early and stopped early, the trail further requires bear cannisters. It rained off and on all day but generally it was nice. I put up my tent early and soon was surrounded by other hikers.
Monday, May 28, 2018
Saturday May 26, miles today 13.2, miles from Springer 12.2
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| PATH finally on the path |
Satish, his daughter and another friend took me Amicalola state park where I registered as the 2648th thru hiker this year. They then drove me up to a mile from Springer mountain. The four of us hiked to the top. The six year old girl was in the best shape of all of us as she hopped rock to rock on the wet trail, terrifying her father. We took pictures at the top and signed the log before we hiked down.
From where we parked I donned my backpack and headed up the trail. It rained off and on all day which was pleasant. I started running out of gas about 10 miles in about at Horse Gap but was disappointed to find no water there as I was running low. Consulting my trail guide I was even more disappointed to find it was 4 more miles to the next water with a 2 mountains between. I struggled up Sassafras mountain and when I arrived at Cooper Gap saw an army water trailer with potable water. I camped happy.
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| Satish and his intrepid daughter |
Friday, May 25, 2018
Thursday May 24, miles today 0, miles from Springer 0
Flew from PA to Greenville today staying with my buddy Satish. We had a beer and pizza party to help me build up my carbs for the Saturday start on the AT.
Tuesday, May 22, 2018
Tuesday May 22, miles today 0, miles from Springer 0
I mailed my first supply drop this morning to Fontana Dam, NC. Hopefully I am not too optimistic in waiting 164 miles after I start for supplies. There are a couple of towns before I get there where I can resupply but not much at Fontana Dam. After there is the Smoky mountains with fewer opportunities.
I packed my backpack for the airplane checking and double checking my list. I weighed it when it was full and it was 37 lbs. That was without water, fuel and my AT guide. Need to get the weight down. I don't want more than 35 lbs fully loaded. Maybe I have too much food and clothing. I don't know what else I can cut.
Friday May 18, Miles today 8, Miles from Springer 0
Eight miles on the Darlington trail in wet conditions. I felt pretty good and made good time.
Tuesday May 15, Miles today 6, Miles from Springer 0
I flew up my favorite steep hill in my new hiking shoes. It was the first time this year that my wind gave out before legs.
I went shopping for shoes yesterday looking over trail runners and hiking shoes. My primary criteria was comfort and durability. After trying on several pairs of shoes and trail runners I settled on some Vasque Breeze III low shoes. They felt much more comfortable than my boots, weighing over a pound less, having Vibram soles so I wouldn't feel every rock on the trail and Gortex tops for some water protection when combined with my low gaiters. In the next couple months I will see how well they do.
I went shopping for shoes yesterday looking over trail runners and hiking shoes. My primary criteria was comfort and durability. After trying on several pairs of shoes and trail runners I settled on some Vasque Breeze III low shoes. They felt much more comfortable than my boots, weighing over a pound less, having Vibram soles so I wouldn't feel every rock on the trail and Gortex tops for some water protection when combined with my low gaiters. In the next couple months I will see how well they do.
Saturday May 12, Miles today 5, Miles from Springer 0
A quick 5 mile hike along the rocky Darlington trail after the washer and dryer were installed. When I got home I looked at the soles of my Vasque GTX Boots and there chunks broken off. Crap, I need to buy and break in new boots two weeks before my hike starts. My feet hurt just thinking about it. In the last 20 years I have gone through four pairs of the same heavy boot. The last two pairs took a long time to wear in. Perhaps they did not fit the same but I always blamed it on getting older, the older I get the more pain I feel.
I decided to do some research. After trolling around the internet a while I found a pretty good site on backpacking with a good article on hiking footwear (http://www.cleverhiker.com/blog/ditch-boots). The article cited "Weight on your feet will zap 4-6 times more energy than weight on your back. So, swapping that 3-pound pair of boots for a 1-pound pair of running shoes will be the energy saving equivalent of removing 8-12 pounds from your pack" They seemed to like "trail runners" which was more of a running shoe but my concerns were durability. I don't want to replace my shoes every 300 miles. Monday I go down to the closest REI to check out new shoes.
I decided to do some research. After trolling around the internet a while I found a pretty good site on backpacking with a good article on hiking footwear (http://www.cleverhiker.com/blog/ditch-boots). The article cited "Weight on your feet will zap 4-6 times more energy than weight on your back. So, swapping that 3-pound pair of boots for a 1-pound pair of running shoes will be the energy saving equivalent of removing 8-12 pounds from your pack" They seemed to like "trail runners" which was more of a running shoe but my concerns were durability. I don't want to replace my shoes every 300 miles. Monday I go down to the closest REI to check out new shoes.
Monday, May 21, 2018
Friday May 11, Miles today 16, Miles from Springer 0
I planned a 3 day / 40 mile backpack trip for the weekend but it became a two day / 30 mile trip when the kids announced we were going to a Winery/Brewery for lunch at 11 am on Mothers Day. The dryer broke as I was preparing my backpack, we went shopping for a new washer/dryer set and by some miracle they promised delivery and installation on Saturday, my trip became a one day 16 mile southbound hike on the AT from Duncannon to the ATC Trail Barn in Cumberland valley.
The ridge south of Duncannon marks a major change in the Appalachian range. It is the southern boundary of the Ice Age Glaciers and is characterized by lots of rocks ranging from boulders you have to crawl over to fields of ankle biters (smaller rocks sticking out of the ground that if you are not careful will twist your ankle). It had been a few years since I had been on the trail and had some concerns of the steep rocky climb from Duncannon to the top of Cove mountain. I was pleasantly surprised, the trail club responsible for that section of trail had built well engineered rock staircases through all the rock fields. While the climb still took my wind and strained my legs it was a pleasant work out to get to the magnificent view of the town and the winding Susquehanna river.
There was an amazing amount of backpacker traffic that Friday, I passed 36 going north. Most seemed to be thru hikers, they seemed like they were in excellent shape. I stopped and chatted with some. One couple had started from Waynesboro, VA several weeks before, they were planning a Flip Flop, meaning they planned to hike up to Maine and then get a ride back down to Waynesboro and hike down to Georgia. Another couple that started in February in Georgia and braved snow and cold down south
I also met an interesting man a few years older than me from Vermont who started in Harpers Ferry and was also planning on Flip Flopping. He said he had started the AT several times and this time he was determined to finish it. He told me the four guys that flew past me earlier had started in late March and were averaging over 25 miles per day. I asked him about the legendary black flies in Maine and if they ever receded. He said that they usually migrate to the higher elevations around the end of July as they don't like the heat and the Dragon Fly larva start hatching and follow them to cut down the population considerably. He also said hiking in Georgia, North Carolina and Tennessee in June was just wonderful.
The ridge south of Duncannon marks a major change in the Appalachian range. It is the southern boundary of the Ice Age Glaciers and is characterized by lots of rocks ranging from boulders you have to crawl over to fields of ankle biters (smaller rocks sticking out of the ground that if you are not careful will twist your ankle). It had been a few years since I had been on the trail and had some concerns of the steep rocky climb from Duncannon to the top of Cove mountain. I was pleasantly surprised, the trail club responsible for that section of trail had built well engineered rock staircases through all the rock fields. While the climb still took my wind and strained my legs it was a pleasant work out to get to the magnificent view of the town and the winding Susquehanna river.
There was an amazing amount of backpacker traffic that Friday, I passed 36 going north. Most seemed to be thru hikers, they seemed like they were in excellent shape. I stopped and chatted with some. One couple had started from Waynesboro, VA several weeks before, they were planning a Flip Flop, meaning they planned to hike up to Maine and then get a ride back down to Waynesboro and hike down to Georgia. Another couple that started in February in Georgia and braved snow and cold down south
I also met an interesting man a few years older than me from Vermont who started in Harpers Ferry and was also planning on Flip Flopping. He said he had started the AT several times and this time he was determined to finish it. He told me the four guys that flew past me earlier had started in late March and were averaging over 25 miles per day. I asked him about the legendary black flies in Maine and if they ever receded. He said that they usually migrate to the higher elevations around the end of July as they don't like the heat and the Dragon Fly larva start hatching and follow them to cut down the population considerably. He also said hiking in Georgia, North Carolina and Tennessee in June was just wonderful.
Wednesday May 2, miles today 8, miles from Springer 0
Hard time getting up this morning, it was pretty cold. Finally got up at 6, ate a bagel, packed up and got on the trail by 7. Started with a 3 1/2 mile uphill over rocky ground followed by a 3 1/2 mile downhill. I didn't meet anyone until I was nearly at my destination Pine Grove Furnace. I met three rather chubby backpackers resting 1/2 mile up the hill. I evaded their question on how far it was to the top, I didn't have the heart to tell them they had 3 more miles but encouraged them that it gets easier in another 1/2 mile.
Tuesday May 1, miles today 13, miles from Springer 0
Going on a 21 mile overnight trip on the AT, lots of hills. Not suffering as much as I thought. I was a little inspired as I passed several backpackers that looked worse off than me. I got a little sunburned, the leaves on the trees are not there yet.
Camped by a creek and didn't see anyone else all evening. It was peaceful, but I had trouble sleeping despite how tired I was.
Monday April 30, miles today 5, miles from Springer 0
Planning an overnight trip tomorrow but waffling, if I feel as bad as I did Saturday I may not be ready. I felt better. During the hike I met two men my age. Without me mentioning anything, both asked when I retired. Does it already show? Maybe only retired folks hike on Mondays in late April.
Saturday April 28 - Miles today 5, miles from Springer 0
I retired yesterday and am preparing for a hike of the southern half of the Appalachian trail. I am headed for Georgia on Memorial day to start my hike. Taking a 5 mile hike today locally up a hill. It hurt.
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