Saturday, June 23, 2018

Saturday June 23, miles today 0, miles from Springer 274.5

Road Trip Day 2 - We got up and ate breakfast at the hotel then decided to extend our stay one day.  We would drive down to Atlanta to drop off Obi Wan then return.

We got on the road at about 10 am and arrived in Atlanta shortly after noon.  After Obi Wan checked into his hotel we to the "MARTA" (commuter train) downtown where we were looking for a German Beer Garden to watch the Germany vs Sweden World Cup game.

We found the "Der Biergarten" and went up the stairs to get in.  As we walked you could hear several people talking in German, I think I saw a smile on Hellcat's face like he found a little piece of home. The place was packed with people many with German's team uniforms, their flag's colors painted on their cheeks or forehead, one girl even had flags in her hair.  The game was very exciting.  The Swedes scored a goal in the first half but the Germans scored a tying goal at the beginning of the second half.  Finally in the 94th minute with only seconds left to play Germany scored a second goal. The entire place erupted with cheer.  It was the first time since I met Hellcat that I saw him express any emotion.

We took the Marta back to Obi Wan's hotel and had a long good bye.  We exchanged email addresses and phone numbers, we thought about future hikes we might take in the future.  We are all going to miss Obi Wan very much.

We drove back to Anderson and made very good time.  The folks in Georgia and South Carolina seem to drive very fast.  After getting back Hellcat, Major Tom and I went to a Chinese Buffet then went off to do our separate activities.

Friday June 22, Miles today 0, miles from Springer 274.5

Road Trip Day 1 - Today we started our 3 day road trip to get Obi Wan to Atlanta and get Major Tom healed.

Our shuttle driver arrived early before breakfast so we packed up quickly and got him to pick us up at our cabin.  JC showed up in a 1988 Buick with the muffler starting to fail.  We loaded up our backpacks in the trunk while I held my bump box in the back seat on my lap.  As we drove down the curvy road toward Asheville JC told us stories about the area.  We arrived at Asheville Airport where Major Tom picked up little Hyundai hatchback rental car.  We squeezed our backpacks in the back and header for our first tourist destination Little Switzerland.

Obi Wan was curious of what was there.  On the way we stopped at a Waffle House to share some American culture with Obi Wan and Hellcat.  We then proceeded up a curvy road to our first destination.  Shortly after 1 pm we arrived.  The town consisted of a lodge with a restaurant and bar, another restaurant, post office and several souvenir shops.  We walked through the souvenir shops and found mostly locally made crafts, we did not find any Swiss products until the last store where we found Swiss army knives made in Canada.  We went to the lodge to see if we could watch the Switzerland vs Serbia World Cup game at the bar but the bar was closed.  However the hostess let us in since we had the only authentic Swiss person in town with us.  We were allowed to get beer from the restaurant and order lunch but other than a couple visits by the cooks we had our own private screening of the game.  It was very exciting and Switzerland won the game with a goal in the last couple minutes.

After the game we got reservations to stay at a Holiday Inn half way to Atlanta in Anderson.  Our hotel was very close to the home of a friend of mine named Rodney so I invited Rodney to have a beer with us.  We checked into the hotel and went to the steak house next door, Rodney and his wife showed up and we shared stories and technology theories.

Thursday June 21, miles today 0, miles from Springer 274.5

We were a little bit of a quiet group today, Obi Wan has to get off the trail to return to Switzerland.  We are going to miss him.  We are also concerned with Major Tom, he needs to let his feet heal.  Even though he has the blisters, a pulled tendon on the foot, and a mild ankle sprain he is determined to get back on the trail tomorrow.  We are worried that if he does, he will not last a week and maybe cause worse damage.

In the morning after a good breakfast at the Mountain Diner, I started going through my gear- cleaning, repairing and organizing.  I went to the outfitter and purchased some freeze dried food and a new hiking shirt.  I went to the laundromat but discovered that all of the six washer machines and six dryers were out of order.

Obi Wan was having a very difficult time finding a shuttle to get him out of the mountains and then to Atlanta for his flight home.  He needed to borrow my phone because he could not get call backs from messages with his Swiss phone number.  An idea was starting to float through my head, Road Trip.  If Major Tom or I could get to Asheville we could rent a car and see Obi Wan off to Atlanta and it would keep Major Tom off the trail perhaps long enough to heal.  I mentioned the idea to Obi Wan and Hellcat and they liked it.  When I mentioned the idea to Major Tom, he just rolled his eyes.

We had lunch, I then went to the Hillbilly Grocer for the rest of my resupply and some laundry soap.  If I couldn't find a place to do laundry I would have to do it in the sink.  I asked around and found out a nearby hostel would let you do it for $5.  Hellcat and I trekked to the hostel while Obi Wan was still trying to find a shuttle.

After we returned from the hostel we mentioned the road trip idea again to Major Tom,  he started to look for nearby places to rent a car.  After seeing that the nearest location was 40 miles away he seemed to give up.

We went to dinner at Iron Horse Station. While dining, all of us expressed our concerns to Major Tom, but he was concerned with the logistics of getting to Asheville.  Obi Wan disappeared leaving a beer half full.  We paid the bill and as we were walking back to our cabin Obi Wan came running up and said he found a shuttle for the morning.  He went across the street to the bar looking for a shuttle driver where he was pointed to a woman, unfortunately, she had crashed her car a few days earlier.  She sent him to the outfitter store owner who called a friend who promised to pick us up at 9 am the next morning.  After a whole day of calling drivers and leaving messages, looking for shuttle drivers, he accomplished his task by spending 15 minutes in a bar.  I guess that is how things get done in some of these small towns.

We got back to our cabin and within WiFi range and Major Tom reserved a car in Asheville.  Tomorrow ROAD TRIP.


Thursday, June 21, 2018

Wednesday June 20, miles today 13.1, miles from Springer 274.5

In the morning, Obi Wan and I finished wringing out our pads and sleeping bags, ate breakfast and were packing up when one of the eight women camped below, came up carrying her sopping wet tent.  She threw it in the shelter and explained "This tent can't stop water, I am not carrying the useless thing out of here."  I guess they had rain trouble as well.

We started on the trail with a 500 foot decent and then a 1000 foot climb.  I felt better than I had the previous day.  Obi Wan and Hellcat then sped down the 4 mile downhill to Garenflo Gap.  I tried to keep up, but couldn't and took a pretty good fall.  Major Tom was even slower than me with his bad feet.  I stopped at a spring to clean off my scrapes, then descended at a more moderate pace.  When I got to the Gap, Obi Wan and Hellcat were waiting.  They decided to continue to Deer Park shelter to eat the last of their food for lunch, I stayed and waited for Major Tom.  While waiting, two trucks with metal cages in the beds containing blood hounds drove up and parked in the gravel parking area.  They asked me if I had seen or heard any hounds.  They had several out between where I was and Hot Springs, tracking a rogue bear.  The dogs had radio collars but once they got in the hills they lost the signal.  At about 11 am, Major Tom came limping down the trail.  He had twisted his ankle.  I talked him into getting a ride to Hot Springs with one of the good ole boys.

I then started on the trail for Deer Park shelter hoping to catch up.  I made very good time hiking the 3.4 miles in an hour and ten minutes arriving for lunch with Obi Wan and Hellcat.  We ate the last of our food before heading down the trail for our last 3 miles to Hot Springs.  As we moved to the lower altitude the flowers were in full bloom.

We walked into town and stopped at the first store we saw, The Hillbilly Grocer.  We bought and quickly consumed apples, bananas, orange juice, chocolate and sodas.  We then continued down the street and met Major Tom showered, fed and happy.  He had gotten our cabin keys and directed us to where should go.  I dropped off my pack and ran to the Post Office to pick up my bump box that I mailed from Fontana.  Major Tom came back with some beer and we sat on the back deck to rest.  At 4 pm the three of us went for another lunch while Major Tom took a nap.  At 7 pm we went for dinner.



Tuesday June 19, miles today 13.1, miles from Springer 261.4

It is late Spring and flowers are blooming.  I decided to take pictures of them today but I don't know what they are.







We left Groundhog shelter at about 7:30 am and had an early climb, I was feeling a little fatigued and fell behind.  By late morning I caught up as the guys were having coffee at Max Patch summit.  Max Patch was an early colonial site where the settlers cleared the trees to graze livestock.  The area was covered by low brush and blooming flowers with great views in every direction.  There was parking nearby and several day hikers.  For folks in the area this would be another nice two hour trip.  The thunder storm came early so we got back on the trail and went down to Nealing Fork shelter for lunch.  Three women came in led by one who had hiked the AT a couple years before.  The eight women and three dogs we saw the night before started to trickle in and camped below.  We ate and spent a couple hours trying to find a place to stay tomorrow at Hot Springs, NC.

That night there was a fierce thunder storm.  I woke up and realized my feet were wet.  The shelter was leaking.  I woke Obi Wan who was in the same situation.  We scrambled around drying our pads and sleeping bags and finding dry spots to sleep.  We woke Major Tom, but no amount of thunder, the pounding of rain on a tin roof, scrambling and flash lights could wake Hellcat from his beauty rest.

Monday June 18, miles today 9.6, miles from Springer 248.3

We had a late start in the morning due to difficulty catching a shuttle

 Before we left, Maniac and Snail Whisperer came in, they finished their trek through the Smokies and were catching a shuttle to Atlanta to fly back to Maine.  We said our goodbyes and wished them luck.  Finally, at about 10 am the owner of Standing Bear gave us a ride to Davenport Gap.  We quickly crossed the Pigeon River and then started our 2700 foot climb.  A couple miles up we stopped for lunch.  As Obi Wan and Hellcat started cooking ramen, Major Tom announced we had a visitor, a bear snuck up to within 30 feet of us and was sniffing the air.  Major Tom and I yelled at him and he began to pace back and forth.  He then stood up and clawed a nearby tree trying to scare us.  When that did not work he tried to sneak through some bushes to our right and come in at a different angle.  We yelled again, Major Tom blew his whistle and finally the bear sat down between two trees to wait for us to leave.  We finished lunch, cleaned up and started back up the trail.  After we left, the bear came down to our lunch site but was disappointed to find nothing to eat.  We were a little concerned the bear might stalk us so we decided to hike together for a while with me in the lead since I am the slowest.

Uninvited Lunch guest, June 18, 2018 Click to zoom
On the way up the hill I started thinking about group dynamics and how we were such a good team.  We certainly are diverse.  Major Tom is very structured and and organized, he is constantly trying to improve the processes by putting routine around them.  Obi Wan is a complete opposite, he is very bright, somewhat impulsive and generally a real happy guy.  He gets us sidetracked and turns us into tourists.  Hellcat is quietly competent and a master technician.  I try to emulate his hiking foot placement.   His habit of pulling out a large chocolate bar and sharing has rubbed off on the rest of us.  I am kind of a mix of all three.  Even though Obi Wan and Major Tom are opposite they get along great.  Obi Wan has adopted much of Major Tom's structure while Major Tom is no longer nose to the grindstone hiking and open to Obi Wan's ideas on getting sidetracked for the tourist experience.

We finally arrived at our high point for the day at Snowbird Mtn and walked around the FAA tower appreciating the views.  The almost daily thunder storm rolled in and we started for the next shelter.  The race cars Obi Wan and Hellcat sped down while I stayed with Major Tom who was having even worse foot problems.  In compensating for the blisters I think he pulled a tendon.  I admire his drive and ability to work through the pain, but I worry about him.

We arrived at Groundhog shelter in early evening and shared it with a guy called Lumberjack, he said he got the name the previous year when he brought a four pound ax but the way he snored that night I will bet it was because he sounded like a chainsaw.  I am adding ear plugs to my shopping list.

A little later eight women and three dogs trickle in and camped below us.  Three college age guys left their packs on the trail and went down 1/4 of a mile for water.  We showed them our lunch bear pictures and movies and warned them never to leave their packs unattended.  They camped nearby.

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Sunday June 17, miles today 15.7, miles from Springer 238.7

We got up late and started on the trail late.  Mike, Ray, Maniac and his daughter were on the trail before us.  Major Tom was still suffering from blisters so he got on the trail early as well.  We stopped for coffee at a former helipad with a nice view.  We caught up with Major Tom, Maniac and his daughter at Deer Creek Gap.  Major Tom had his shoes off and had problems with his toes.  We had met Maniac and his daughter on the way up into the Smokies from Fontana.  Maniac had hiked the AT a couple years earlier, he and his mid twenty daughter were section hiking the national parks.  The daughter did not have a trail name.  During our chat at the Gap she admitted to spending time saving the snails that had made there way on to the trail from us clumsy hikers by removing them to safer places.  We stopped at Cosby Knob shelter and again Maniac and daughter caught up with us.  This time, the daughter described saving two snails and being a Matchmaker.  At that point I suggested her trail name should be Snail Whisperer.  After a little discussion it was agreed on, she now had a trail name.
 
Tower at Mt. Cammerer, June 17, 2018
We took a little side trip for lunch a climbed to Mt. Cammerer to a fire tower.  It was a rocky climb but the trip was worth it.  We lunched on the balcony.  We then continued on the trail determined to get to Davenport Gap and possibly stay at Standing Bear hostel.

When we arrived at the Gap we got enough cell service to call for a shuttle.  A pickup truck half full of debris arrived and the driver told us to get in the back.  When we arrived at the hostel we saw a what appeared to be a combination hippie/redneck commune.  We put our gear in the bunk house and were shown around.  They had a shower that sometimes had hot water, an outhouse, a communal kitchen, a laundry room with a sink and wash boards and a pretty modern dryer and small store run on the honor system, you wrote down what you took and paid for it when you left.  They did have beer.  They had a work for stay program where if you worked you got a bunk, if you worked hard you could get a meal and if you worked really hard you might get a beer.  It appeared that all the employees were on the work for stay program.  We got some beer and cooked some frozen pizzas.  We never really unpacked our backpacks, just got out our sleeping bags and laid them on the bunks when we were ready to sleep.
Welcome to Appalachia, Hostel/Commune, June 17, 2018

Cozy accommodations, June 17, 2018 

Saturday June 16, miles today 15.7, miles from Springer 223

NC/TN State Line, June 16, 2018
After a free breakfast our shuttle driver, Leanne, arrived early at 8 am and drove us to back to Newfound Gap.  The trail was crowded with weekend day hikers.  We climbed the 1000 feet over Mt. Ambler and stopped a little further at Icewater spring shelter.  Major Tom was having trouble with his new boots, he already had blisters on his heels.  He treated them and we continued to Charlie's Bunion, a rock outcrop will great views.  Unfortunately it was crowded with about 20 people so we continued without stopping.  I do recommend the hike for day hikers but maybe go on a week day.  We stopped for lunch at Bradley's View then continued over some very rough, rocky trail over Mts. Sequoyah and Chapman.  We finally arrived at TriCorner Knob shelter which was full.  Young Mike, Ray, several section hikers who we saw before our day off in Gatlinburg and an REI Adventure Group with 2 guides and 6 beginning backpackers.  We tented near by.  Ray was scaring the REI group with tales of wild mice causing them to try to hang their entire backpacks on the bear cables leaving no room for our food bags.  Fortunately, some justice was served when two of the backpacks fell from a cable on to him.  We made them leave one cable for us.
Scenic backcountry privy, June 16, 2018

Privies - privies also known as out houses in the Backcountry have an interesting twist out on the trail from the Smokies to Georgia.  The Appalachian Trail Conference (ATC) has convinced the federal government to help fund the building and maintenance of privies and they must adhere to some of the government's regulations.  So you hike several miles over rugged mountains to get to a shelter, then over an often difficult trail to get to the privies but when you arrive the privies have wheelchair accessibility including a ramp and first class bars.

Federally funded privy, June 16, 2018