For Sunday, June 17th - HAPPY FATHER'S DAY, DAD!

This blog has been temporarily been hijacked by Path's loving daughters who wished to take the time to wish him a wonderful Father's Day holiday on his most active social media platform!

Spawn #2 and Spawn #1 casually chilling in the backyard

Dad, we are so proud of you. Since retirement you've become a different, refreshed human being and it seems like this trip is only making you better. We follow your every post and wait for your witty quips so we can tell our friends, coworkers, and strangers what you've been up to on a daily basis.

Spawn #2 forcing Spawn #3 to show some emotion

As always, be safe; don't do that thing where you go too fast along the trail that you slip and smack your ankle on a rock that happened to be right there where you placed your foot.  Take your time, smells the flowers, enjoy the company, maybe get in a few swigs of that Gatlinburg moonshine, and have fun!

Spawn #3 being supervised by Spawn #1

When you get back, we'll have some good rib-eye ready to put on the grill and we'll enjoy a nice bottle of wine out on the porch in the summer evening. It'll be a great time.

Love,

Amy, Shannon, and Michelle (and the grandchild + dogs + cats)

Grandspawn taking in an evening movie

Friday June 15, miles today 0, miles from Springer 207.3

A day in Gatlinburg was a different type of experience for an AT hiker.   We ate to a good free breakfast at the hotel, did our laundry and then went to the outfitter.  Major Tom bought some new low ankle boots and trekking poles as well as a new light weight coffee cup.  He has been missing out on some of our mid morning coffee breaks on the trail due to not having a convenient cup.  He has been trying to keep his caffeine down so he bought some cocoa.  We went for pizza for lunch where the four of us each ordered our own 12 inch pizza.  The waitress couldn't believe it after we all finished our entire order.  The world cup was on the TV so Hellcat ordered a beer and stayed to watch, while Obi Wan went back to the room for a call with his girlfriend and Major Tom and I went grocery shopping.

Major Tom bought an apple and turkey leg and had dinner in his room while Hellcat, Obi Wan and I went to a steak house.  After dinner we strolled around the town with the huge crowds and traffic to see the sites.  There a live bluegrass band playing at the moonshine distillery where we stopped for a bit but mostly we watched the people walking by.  After some ice cream we returned to the room to get ready for tomorrow.

A day of walking around on the hot sidewalks caused my my feet to swell up worse than any day on the trail.  While Gatlinburg was an experience I will be glad to be back on the trail.

Thursday June 14, miles today 12.2, miles from Springer 207.3

After a good breakfast we started the climb of Clingmans Dome.  We were hoping for less fog and more views but were disappointed.  It was not a difficult climb and we arrived at about 9:30.  We carried our backpacks up a large circular walkway to the top of the observation tower and took a few pictures of each other with a thick fog in the background.  Every once in a while there was a patch of blue sky so we went down to the base of the tower, made coffee and lingered hoping for enough clear skies to some of the 100 mile view.   There was a parking lot a half mile from the tower and several tourists.  Many stopped to ask questions about our experiences, what we eat, how we resupply, etc.  We were a minor tourist attraction. 

At about 11 am we gave up on the skies clearing and continued down the trail.  We made good time and arrived at Newfound Gap at 2:30 to a large parking lot full of cars.  This was the site of the Rockefeller monument dedicated for the money the Rockefeller family donated t help buy the land for the park.  It was also the site of where the Appalachian trail passed and with our backpacks and conspicuous odor we became live exhibits.  Many people stopped and asked questions.  One family even offered us trail magic of snacks which we gratefully accepted.  The signs said do not feed the animals but some people like to live on the edge.  After struggling to find cell phone service we were finally able to call a shuttle.  It was scheduled to arrive at 4 and arrived finally at 4:30, that must be eastern Tennessee time.  Leanne, our driver, took us down the scenic US Route 441.  Wherever there was a creek, trailhead or view cars were lined up along the side of the highway.  Leanne said on the weekends you needed to park by 7 am or you would not find a spot.  Shortly after 5 pm we arrived at the tourist Mecca of Gatlinburg with over 100 hotels, 70 restaurants, countless stores, shops, fun houses and oddities.  The county is also home of a large amusement park Dollywood, founded by country singer Dolly Parton.  The local women all seemed to speak like Dolly with that delightful eastern Tennessee twang.

We checked into the Quality Inn, showered and went to dinner where we decided to stay an extra day despite the premium hotel price for a Friday night.  Obi Wan has to return to Switzerland in 10 days and really wanted to see more of the southeastern American culture.  He did not have a hard time convincing the rest of us.  After dinner we strolled down the main Street looking at the stores, shops and oddities.  Obi Wan observed that the place was a teenager paradise.

Wednesday June 13, miles today 15.8, miles from Springer 195.1

Obi Wan and I escaped out of the crowded Mollies ridge shelter early after a quick cup of coffee and a power bar.  Major Tom and Hellcat were not far behind.  It was very foggy, visibility was bad.  We went about six miles and stopped on top of a grassy hill called Spence Field for a proper breakfast.  I had coffee, grits and chocolate.  It was a pretty eerie scene with all the fog morning over the hill.  The trail from there to our Derick Knob shelter changed from a shared horse/hiker trail to a hiker only trail and became exceedingly rugged with extreme ups and downs but lots of great views, unfortunately the fog and now rain ruined the views.  We arrived at Derick Knob shelter at about 1 pm and had lunch.  We then decided to go 6 more miles to Silers Knob shelter which would position us for an early climb the next day of Clingmans Dome, the highest point on the AT.

A visit to an outfitter was now becoming more important for Major Tom.  He was now hiking in his spare Nike running shoes because his high ankle boots were tearing up his feet but his running shoes were slipping on a lot of the rocks.  He had a nasty fall the previous day where he broke one of his trekking poles.  Engineer that he is he did a great job with a stick and duct tape repairing it but today he took another fall bending the other pole.

About two miles before our day's destination I came across a young couple where the girl was walking barefoot without a pack and the guy was carrying everything.  I guess she decided to throw away her high heels.  I wondered if they knew about the nasty rocks coming up.  They were smiling and having a good time so I wished them luck and continued on.

We made it to Silers Knob shelter in early evening and shared it with a father and three children who were hiking from Hot Springs, NC to Springer, a 275 mile hike.  Estimating the kids ages I would say a 14 year old girl, 11 year old boy and a 9 year old girl.  They seemed very organized and the kids morale seemed good, I think they will make it if they have enough time.

Tuesday June 12, miles today 12.9, miles from Springer 177.3

After breakfast we caught the first shuttle out back to the trail.  Ray and two other hikers were on the same shuttle but they were being dropped off further along at the Dam.  Three other hikers were at the front door at 6:30 waiting for a special shuttle but I guess they didn't know about Western Carolina time, their driver didn't show up til 8 am.

We got on the trail at the marina since that is where we left off.  A mile and a half we got to a Fontana shelter, also known as the Fontana Hilton.  It sleeps 24 and comes equipped with flush toilets, showers and a phone charging station.  A half mile further we arrived at the Dam.  Hellcat, Obi Wan and I became tourists while Major Tom crossed the dam and continued up the trail.  Finally after 45 minutes of looking at the structure and displays at the visitor center we too crossed the dam. 

We climbed 2700 feet in pretty high humidity.  Despite this I think we were feeling pretty good due to the zero day.  Obi Wan and Hellcat were hiking ahead of me like usual until I came upon them standing in the trail.  Ahead of us about 100 feet was a mother bear and two cubs, one of the cubs was standing on the trail.  I showed them how I learned to deal with this situation as I learned years before as a young cowboy working in the Sierra Nevadas.  I calmly announced our presence, which she already knew, "hello mother bear".  I then asked her for permission to pass, "mother bear, may we continue on the trail?".  I then continued to talk calmly and reassuringly.  The cubs scampered to the other side of the mother and she then ambled down the hill.  When she was over 100 feet from the trail we continued down the trail, as we passed I thanked her "thank you mother bear". 

We continued to Mollies ridge shelter and there were already quite a few people there.  We considered going three more miles to Russell Field shelter but found out it was closed due to bear problems.  By 7:30 pm there were 21 people there.  The national parks require all hikers sleep in shelters.  If there are too many people then thru hikers must tent.  We settled in cooked our dinners, bedded down in that mass of humanity.

Monday June 11, miles today 0, miles from Springer 164.4

After a leisurely breakfast, several cups of coffee and updates to the blog we went down to the General Store/ laundry/ Post Office for resupply.  I picked up my supply box, sold some food to the guys and then went into the general store to buy candy bars and other overpriced supplies to get us through four days until we resupply again in Gatlinburg.

Resupply, Hellcat, Major Tom, Obi-Wan, and Path, June 11, 2018

My recalibration is going well though different than I expected.  I have become the social director for our group.  I find myself taking interest in most people.  This morning a woman was shaping plants on an arbor by the swimming pool.  I complimented her on the plants she was working on.  She told me how the flowering vines would grow all Summer and soon cover the entire arbor.  She then showed me the other parts of her garden.  The odd thing was I was genuinely interested.  I have never been like this my entire life.  It turns out she is the assistant manager to the facility and the garden is her hobby.  It can really pay to be genuinely interested.

Another responsibility is to figure out trail names for hikers that don't have one.  All the names in this blog are either a real first name or their trail name.  The trail names are a lot more fun.  Once the older Mike goes back to Phoenix I will figure out a name for the younger one.

We spent most of the afternoon lounging around and taking advantage of the amenities of the resort.  In the evening after dinner we did any last minute cleaning of our equipment, packed our backpacks and reviewed our maps and guides.  Tomorrow we start the trek through the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.

Obi-Wan and Hellcat taking advantage of the amenities,
 June 11, 2018

Sunday June 10, miles today 5.6, miles from Springer 164.4

We were all up pretty early eager to get to Fontana Dam for food, rest and resupply.  Our packs were light as we were almost out of food.  I was first on the trail but Hellcat passed me at high speed.  We were all at the Fontana marina by 9:45 drinking Coke and enjoying the luxury of flush toilets and running water. There was even an electric outlet where I plugged in my dead phone.  At 10 am a hotel shuttle came and brought us to the lodge.  We were lucky and were able to check into our rooms immediately just before the breakfast buffet closed.  As we walked to the restaurant I remembered my phone back at the marina.  The guys went to breakfast as I ran to the lobby to try for the shuttle.  It had just left with three AT hikers but the receptionist call them back for me.  I met the three hikers including Cowboy who I had seen but not met Franklin, a woman called Short Punch who was hiking with a man with a trail name of Pikachu (who was delighted I knew about Pokemon).  When we arrived at the marina my phone was still there and my fellow hikers gave me a cheer.  We dropped them off at the Dam and returned to the lodge too late for breakfast.  I was allowed to go sit with my friends.  They snuck me some of their food.

At noon we went down to the General Store/laundry/post office.  We were a little disappointed because the general store had a limited selection for backpacker supply and the post office where I was expecting a food box did not open until 11:45 the following day.  We decided to take a zero day and stay one more night so we could concentrate on resupply the following day.  We finished our wash, picked up some beer and returned to our rooms for a little relaxation.

In the early evening I went down to the pool area to wait for the guys for our stroll to the Bar and Grill.  While waiting I met another hiker named Ray, he is from Sydney, Australia.  Like me he is a retired refugee from the Information Technology (IT) field.  We briefly compared careers and hiking experience.  When the guys came down the five of us went to dinner.  At the bar and grill we met Mike and Mike.  The seven of us ordered huge dinners with double vegetables.  We ate, drank, talked and laughed.  At the end of dinner there was not a scrap left.  It was the first time in  five days that I was not hungry.  It's incredible how much food is required to sustain this hike.  I slept very nicely that night.

The Big Feed ad Fontana Lake Resort. Clockwise, from left:
Obi-Wan, Major Tom,  Hellcat, Older Mike, Younger Mike and Ray,
June 10, 2018.

Saturday June 9, miles today 15.2, miles from Springer 158.8

I got up early as has become my habit, got the food bags down, made my breakfast using the last of my oatmeal and was starting to pack up when the rest of the folks at the shelter started to rise.  Igor was a lot more friendly and quizzed me on the type food and equipment I use.  He needs to get the weight on his 70 lb pack down.

I was off at dawn, climbing Cheoah Bald.  The last half mile was a very steep 35 degree incline.  Any incline over 20 degrees will stop me, and I end up resting for 30 seconds as I go up.  To make sure I continue, I count steps in increments of 100, 200 or 400.  I have learned that 2400 of my steps is one mile.  I often keep count which let's me know how close I am to finishing a climb.

When I finally got to the top, I found John camped, with his camera tripod set up.  He was just boiling water for coffee and offered me some-- if I could provide my own cup.  By now I had started carrying my coffee cup in the top of my pack and quickly joined him.  The views were spectacular. You could the mountain tops and fog between them in the lower elevations.  I even got out my phone to take a couple pictures.  Despite the view, the bugs were swarming making it a little uncomfortable.  I was a little surprised how the gnats and flies swarmed at the top of mountains and there was not many at the lower elevations.  I finished my coffee and got back on the trail.

View from Cheoah Bald, June 9, 2018

About 7 miles into the hike I decended to Stecoah Gap which had a highway running through.  Obi Wan, Major Tom and Hellcat had just caught up, when a man in a white minivan drove up.  He owned a couple hostels near by and wanted to know if we wanted to stay.  We were looking forward to getting to Fontana Dam the next day and needed to put in a lot more miles today so we turned him down.  It is amazing how much business the AT hikers bring to this area.  The local people are genuinely friendly.  The man gave us some water and went on his way.

A couple miles further we stopped at a pretty run down Brown Fork shelter for lunch.  We waited out a little rain then continued another six miles to Cable Gap shelter.  I was the last one in and tired.  I remembered how grouchy Igor was the previous night so I stayed quiet until I recovered.  Major Tom made reservations at the Fontana Dam Resort for the following night.  We were all looking forward to showers, food and beer the next day.

Friday June 8, miles today 7.1, miles from Springer 143.6

Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC), June 8, 2018

We waited until 8 am to have breakfast at the NOC restaurant then went to the outfitter to print our Smoky mountain permits.  On the way back to our bunkhouse we met Mike and Mike a father/son team who we had seen several times including the shelter at Standing Indian and the Budget Inn in Franklin.  The son is trying a thru hike and the father returning to Phoenix when they get to Fontana dam.  We exchanged trail news.  They were taking a zero day and had purchased adventure tickets for zip lining, white water rafting and kayaking.  We also stopped to chat with a mother/young son team Late Light and Miles who were doing a large section hike, I had met them the previous day at Cold Spring shelter during my early morning run.

Behind NOC, June, 8 2018

We started the morning with a long 6 mile climb.  I am trying to make up my mind on whether I prefer the climbs or drops better.  My stamina is getting better but not nearly as good as my partners.  I have short legs and when measured by footprints in mud on flat muddy ground, their strides are 14 to 17 inches longer than mine.  I am a little jealous of them. Major Tom has the stamina and knowledge of the marathon runner.  For the first couple of days I hiked with Hellcat, I was able to keep up with him and learn.  He has a good consistent pace and great foot placement.  That all ended at the outfitter at Franklin where he bought trail runner shoes, light weight trekking poles and some cool sun glasses.  Since then he has been powering up the uphills and gliding down the downhills with Obi-Wan.  They are like a couple of sports cars testing the curves on Alpine roads.

I caught up with the two sports cars at Swim Bald just in time for coffee.  Major Tom came by, but continued to Sassafras Gap shelter.  It was starting to get cloudy so we packed up and headed for the shelter a mile away and arrived just before the thunder, lightning and pouring rain.  We decided to stay as we were trying to time our arrival to Fontana Dam.

We had a couple people stop by during the afternoon.  John came running in 15 minutes after the storm started and stayed until the weather cleared up.  He was planning on camping at the top of Cheoah Bald.  Later in the early evening Igor and Elizabeth, a father/daughter team came in to camp.  Igor's pack must have weighed over 65 lbs.  He was pretty grouchy and exhausted when he came in and we were pretty careful.