Sunday, July 1, 2018

Monday June 25, miles today 15.9, miles from Springer 301.4

It rained pretty hard overnight but the old Spring Mountain shelter did not leak.  Like many of the shelters on the Tennesee/North Carolina border it was built in 1937/1938 by the Civilian Conservation Corps.  These were typically small, with rock or log walls and a Tin Roof.  The trail clubs try hard but sometimes have difficulty maintaining them.

We got on the trail at 8:30 am and made the six and a half miles to Log Cabin Drive by 11.  We debated a little about going off the trail for 3/4 of a mile to Hemlock Hallow Inn and Cafe for a late breakfast but resisted the temptation and decided to ascend the 3 1/2 miles to Little Laurel Shelter for lunch.  Major Tom and Hellcat went ahead while I was lagging in the light rain.  On the way up I ran out of energy with my legs cramping up.  I have lost 20 lbs since I started on the trail and by now am having a hard time finding additional fat to burn for energy.  I need to eat more spread out during the day but am trying to temper that with the need to carry more food and more weight.

I finally arrived at Little Laurel Shelter as Major Tom and Hellcat were finishing their lunch.  I decided to have a large lunch including some ramen, jerky, a tuna pack, tortillas and coffee.  The guys left before I finished.  I felt better on the trail after the large lunch but about half way up a 1500 foot climb to Bald Mountain it started to thunderstorm again.  I push on over bald mountain until about 4 pm until I arrived at the bad weather trail bypass for Big Firescald Knob.  The official Appalachian trail went over an exposed rocky ridge but the trail crews built a blue marked trail that allowed hikers to bypass the difficult part.  There was still a light rain but no thunder and lightning so in a moment of recklessness I decided to take the official exposed ridge trail.  It was a pretty hard 1/2 mile climb up the rocks where I often had to use my hands and feed to get past some of the rocks.  Finally I got to the top of the ridge and was rewarded with spectacular views.  Despite the rain there was a view of the Tennessee Valley to the west and endless mountains of North Carolina to the east.  After taking in the views I was ready to get off of the exposed ridge but the trail did not cooperate.  I  descended down some steep rocks only to ascend to the top of the ridge again.  This repeated several times and I was getting tired.  Finally the trail did descend and I found a rock overhang that offered a small dry space that I crawled into for a rest.  I checked my guidebook and saw that I needed to hike 2 1/2 more miles to get to Jerry Cabin Shelter.  I ate a Snickers Bar and restarted my hike.  I shortly arrived at the other side of the bypass trail, it had taken me one and a half hours to go one and a half miles over that rock scramble.

At 7 pm I arrived at the shelter, that place was crowded.  It looked like a tent city and there were a dozen people around the shelter.  There was a boy scout troop with 10 boys and 4 escorts, a men's hiking group of 6 and probably another 6 or 8 people.  Hellcat had tented near the shelter and Major Tom found a spot in the shelter.  I searched around and found a small spot up the trail where I set up my tent.  I filtered some water and cooked my dinner.  From where I was I could hear the voices from the shelter and felt sorry for Major Tom who probably wanted to sleep.  He told me the next day that the commotion went on until 11 pm.   At least we went over the 300 mile mark on the trail that day.


Sunday June 24, Miles today 11, miles from Springer 285.5

Hellcat and Major Tom left the Holiday Inn at 8 am in order to turn the car in early at Asheville and save a day on the rental.  Rodney and Carmen picked me up at 9 am and we followed them.  I was able to catch up on things going on at work, which I did not miss.  We also talked about their daughters dance career in New York City we well with updates on family and friends.  We picked up Hellcat and Major Tom in Asheville and made the windy drive up to Hot Springs where we had lunch at the Iron Horse Restaurant.  While eating the rain started coming down pretty good and we dawdled around until it ended.

At about 1:30 the rain ended and a very hot sun came out and dried things up pretty good but in the process it became pretty humid.  Rodney and Carmen saw us off as we donned our backpacks and continued on.  The trail crossed the French Broad River then followed it for about a half mile. Then we started the first 1500 foot climb.  The head and humidity was pretty oppressive and we had to stop a couple times in shade to rest.  At about 3 pm another thunder storm came in to cool things off.  It really rained hard and the trail was starting to flood.  We stopped and considered setting up a tent to get some shelter, we were actually shivering from cold even though I doubt the temperature dipped below 70 F.  In a matter of two hours we went from over heating to cold.  Instead we put on our rain gear and started up another climb.  That climb was easier despite the flooding because it was cooler.

We finally arrived at Spring Mountain Shelter at about 7 pm where we met a couple local backpackers.  They had started a small smoky fire to smoke out the mosquitoes and Major Tom snapped at them reminding me of Igor a few weeks earlier coming in wet and tired after a day's hiking.  We patched things up and set up.  Another man came in named "Crossing America for Wounded Veterans".  He was a 32 year old that left the Marine Corps a few years earlier that was trekking and bicycling around America raising money.  He had hike the Pacific Crest Trail, ridden his bicycle from New England to Washington and California to Georgia and now he was hiking the Appalachian trail.  He had acquired some sponsors but was still on a pretty meager budget.  He was planning on hiking the Continental Divide Trail next year.

Saturday, June 23, 2018

Saturday June 23, miles today 0, miles from Springer 274.5

Road Trip Day 2 - We got up and ate breakfast at the hotel then decided to extend our stay one day.  We would drive down to Atlanta to drop off Obi Wan then return.

We got on the road at about 10 am and arrived in Atlanta shortly after noon.  After Obi Wan checked into his hotel we to the "MARTA" (commuter train) downtown where we were looking for a German Beer Garden to watch the Germany vs Sweden World Cup game.

We found the "Der Biergarten" and went up the stairs to get in.  As we walked you could hear several people talking in German, I think I saw a smile on Hellcat's face like he found a little piece of home. The place was packed with people many with German's team uniforms, their flag's colors painted on their cheeks or forehead, one girl even had flags in her hair.  The game was very exciting.  The Swedes scored a goal in the first half but the Germans scored a tying goal at the beginning of the second half.  Finally in the 94th minute with only seconds left to play Germany scored a second goal. The entire place erupted with cheer.  It was the first time since I met Hellcat that I saw him express any emotion.

We took the Marta back to Obi Wan's hotel and had a long good bye.  We exchanged email addresses and phone numbers, we thought about future hikes we might take in the future.  We are all going to miss Obi Wan very much.

We drove back to Anderson and made very good time.  The folks in Georgia and South Carolina seem to drive very fast.  After getting back Hellcat, Major Tom and I went to a Chinese Buffet then went off to do our separate activities.

Friday June 22, Miles today 0, miles from Springer 274.5

Road Trip Day 1 - Today we started our 3 day road trip to get Obi Wan to Atlanta and get Major Tom healed.

Our shuttle driver arrived early before breakfast so we packed up quickly and got him to pick us up at our cabin.  JC showed up in a 1988 Buick with the muffler starting to fail.  We loaded up our backpacks in the trunk while I held my bump box in the back seat on my lap.  As we drove down the curvy road toward Asheville JC told us stories about the area.  We arrived at Asheville Airport where Major Tom picked up little Hyundai hatchback rental car.  We squeezed our backpacks in the back and header for our first tourist destination Little Switzerland.

Obi Wan was curious of what was there.  On the way we stopped at a Waffle House to share some American culture with Obi Wan and Hellcat.  We then proceeded up a curvy road to our first destination.  Shortly after 1 pm we arrived.  The town consisted of a lodge with a restaurant and bar, another restaurant, post office and several souvenir shops.  We walked through the souvenir shops and found mostly locally made crafts, we did not find any Swiss products until the last store where we found Swiss army knives made in Canada.  We went to the lodge to see if we could watch the Switzerland vs Serbia World Cup game at the bar but the bar was closed.  However the hostess let us in since we had the only authentic Swiss person in town with us.  We were allowed to get beer from the restaurant and order lunch but other than a couple visits by the cooks we had our own private screening of the game.  It was very exciting and Switzerland won the game with a goal in the last couple minutes.

After the game we got reservations to stay at a Holiday Inn half way to Atlanta in Anderson.  Our hotel was very close to the home of a friend of mine named Rodney so I invited Rodney to have a beer with us.  We checked into the hotel and went to the steak house next door, Rodney and his wife showed up and we shared stories and technology theories.

Thursday June 21, miles today 0, miles from Springer 274.5

We were a little bit of a quiet group today, Obi Wan has to get off the trail to return to Switzerland.  We are going to miss him.  We are also concerned with Major Tom, he needs to let his feet heal.  Even though he has the blisters, a pulled tendon on the foot, and a mild ankle sprain he is determined to get back on the trail tomorrow.  We are worried that if he does, he will not last a week and maybe cause worse damage.

In the morning after a good breakfast at the Mountain Diner, I started going through my gear- cleaning, repairing and organizing.  I went to the outfitter and purchased some freeze dried food and a new hiking shirt.  I went to the laundromat but discovered that all of the six washer machines and six dryers were out of order.

Obi Wan was having a very difficult time finding a shuttle to get him out of the mountains and then to Atlanta for his flight home.  He needed to borrow my phone because he could not get call backs from messages with his Swiss phone number.  An idea was starting to float through my head, Road Trip.  If Major Tom or I could get to Asheville we could rent a car and see Obi Wan off to Atlanta and it would keep Major Tom off the trail perhaps long enough to heal.  I mentioned the idea to Obi Wan and Hellcat and they liked it.  When I mentioned the idea to Major Tom, he just rolled his eyes.

We had lunch, I then went to the Hillbilly Grocer for the rest of my resupply and some laundry soap.  If I couldn't find a place to do laundry I would have to do it in the sink.  I asked around and found out a nearby hostel would let you do it for $5.  Hellcat and I trekked to the hostel while Obi Wan was still trying to find a shuttle.

After we returned from the hostel we mentioned the road trip idea again to Major Tom,  he started to look for nearby places to rent a car.  After seeing that the nearest location was 40 miles away he seemed to give up.

We went to dinner at Iron Horse Station. While dining, all of us expressed our concerns to Major Tom, but he was concerned with the logistics of getting to Asheville.  Obi Wan disappeared leaving a beer half full.  We paid the bill and as we were walking back to our cabin Obi Wan came running up and said he found a shuttle for the morning.  He went across the street to the bar looking for a shuttle driver where he was pointed to a woman, unfortunately, she had crashed her car a few days earlier.  She sent him to the outfitter store owner who called a friend who promised to pick us up at 9 am the next morning.  After a whole day of calling drivers and leaving messages, looking for shuttle drivers, he accomplished his task by spending 15 minutes in a bar.  I guess that is how things get done in some of these small towns.

We got back to our cabin and within WiFi range and Major Tom reserved a car in Asheville.  Tomorrow ROAD TRIP.


Thursday, June 21, 2018

Wednesday June 20, miles today 13.1, miles from Springer 274.5

In the morning, Obi Wan and I finished wringing out our pads and sleeping bags, ate breakfast and were packing up when one of the eight women camped below, came up carrying her sopping wet tent.  She threw it in the shelter and explained "This tent can't stop water, I am not carrying the useless thing out of here."  I guess they had rain trouble as well.

We started on the trail with a 500 foot decent and then a 1000 foot climb.  I felt better than I had the previous day.  Obi Wan and Hellcat then sped down the 4 mile downhill to Garenflo Gap.  I tried to keep up, but couldn't and took a pretty good fall.  Major Tom was even slower than me with his bad feet.  I stopped at a spring to clean off my scrapes, then descended at a more moderate pace.  When I got to the Gap, Obi Wan and Hellcat were waiting.  They decided to continue to Deer Park shelter to eat the last of their food for lunch, I stayed and waited for Major Tom.  While waiting, two trucks with metal cages in the beds containing blood hounds drove up and parked in the gravel parking area.  They asked me if I had seen or heard any hounds.  They had several out between where I was and Hot Springs, tracking a rogue bear.  The dogs had radio collars but once they got in the hills they lost the signal.  At about 11 am, Major Tom came limping down the trail.  He had twisted his ankle.  I talked him into getting a ride to Hot Springs with one of the good ole boys.

I then started on the trail for Deer Park shelter hoping to catch up.  I made very good time hiking the 3.4 miles in an hour and ten minutes arriving for lunch with Obi Wan and Hellcat.  We ate the last of our food before heading down the trail for our last 3 miles to Hot Springs.  As we moved to the lower altitude the flowers were in full bloom.

We walked into town and stopped at the first store we saw, The Hillbilly Grocer.  We bought and quickly consumed apples, bananas, orange juice, chocolate and sodas.  We then continued down the street and met Major Tom showered, fed and happy.  He had gotten our cabin keys and directed us to where should go.  I dropped off my pack and ran to the Post Office to pick up my bump box that I mailed from Fontana.  Major Tom came back with some beer and we sat on the back deck to rest.  At 4 pm the three of us went for another lunch while Major Tom took a nap.  At 7 pm we went for dinner.



Tuesday June 19, miles today 13.1, miles from Springer 261.4

It is late Spring and flowers are blooming.  I decided to take pictures of them today but I don't know what they are.







We left Groundhog shelter at about 7:30 am and had an early climb, I was feeling a little fatigued and fell behind.  By late morning I caught up as the guys were having coffee at Max Patch summit.  Max Patch was an early colonial site where the settlers cleared the trees to graze livestock.  The area was covered by low brush and blooming flowers with great views in every direction.  There was parking nearby and several day hikers.  For folks in the area this would be another nice two hour trip.  The thunder storm came early so we got back on the trail and went down to Nealing Fork shelter for lunch.  Three women came in led by one who had hiked the AT a couple years before.  The eight women and three dogs we saw the night before started to trickle in and camped below.  We ate and spent a couple hours trying to find a place to stay tomorrow at Hot Springs, NC.

That night there was a fierce thunder storm.  I woke up and realized my feet were wet.  The shelter was leaking.  I woke Obi Wan who was in the same situation.  We scrambled around drying our pads and sleeping bags and finding dry spots to sleep.  We woke Major Tom, but no amount of thunder, the pounding of rain on a tin roof, scrambling and flash lights could wake Hellcat from his beauty rest.

Monday June 18, miles today 9.6, miles from Springer 248.3

We had a late start in the morning due to difficulty catching a shuttle

 Before we left, Maniac and Snail Whisperer came in, they finished their trek through the Smokies and were catching a shuttle to Atlanta to fly back to Maine.  We said our goodbyes and wished them luck.  Finally, at about 10 am the owner of Standing Bear gave us a ride to Davenport Gap.  We quickly crossed the Pigeon River and then started our 2700 foot climb.  A couple miles up we stopped for lunch.  As Obi Wan and Hellcat started cooking ramen, Major Tom announced we had a visitor, a bear snuck up to within 30 feet of us and was sniffing the air.  Major Tom and I yelled at him and he began to pace back and forth.  He then stood up and clawed a nearby tree trying to scare us.  When that did not work he tried to sneak through some bushes to our right and come in at a different angle.  We yelled again, Major Tom blew his whistle and finally the bear sat down between two trees to wait for us to leave.  We finished lunch, cleaned up and started back up the trail.  After we left, the bear came down to our lunch site but was disappointed to find nothing to eat.  We were a little concerned the bear might stalk us so we decided to hike together for a while with me in the lead since I am the slowest.

Uninvited Lunch guest, June 18, 2018 Click to zoom
On the way up the hill I started thinking about group dynamics and how we were such a good team.  We certainly are diverse.  Major Tom is very structured and and organized, he is constantly trying to improve the processes by putting routine around them.  Obi Wan is a complete opposite, he is very bright, somewhat impulsive and generally a real happy guy.  He gets us sidetracked and turns us into tourists.  Hellcat is quietly competent and a master technician.  I try to emulate his hiking foot placement.   His habit of pulling out a large chocolate bar and sharing has rubbed off on the rest of us.  I am kind of a mix of all three.  Even though Obi Wan and Major Tom are opposite they get along great.  Obi Wan has adopted much of Major Tom's structure while Major Tom is no longer nose to the grindstone hiking and open to Obi Wan's ideas on getting sidetracked for the tourist experience.

We finally arrived at our high point for the day at Snowbird Mtn and walked around the FAA tower appreciating the views.  The almost daily thunder storm rolled in and we started for the next shelter.  The race cars Obi Wan and Hellcat sped down while I stayed with Major Tom who was having even worse foot problems.  In compensating for the blisters I think he pulled a tendon.  I admire his drive and ability to work through the pain, but I worry about him.

We arrived at Groundhog shelter in early evening and shared it with a guy called Lumberjack, he said he got the name the previous year when he brought a four pound ax but the way he snored that night I will bet it was because he sounded like a chainsaw.  I am adding ear plugs to my shopping list.

A little later eight women and three dogs trickle in and camped below us.  Three college age guys left their packs on the trail and went down 1/4 of a mile for water.  We showed them our lunch bear pictures and movies and warned them never to leave their packs unattended.  They camped nearby.